In Milan, the menswear collections sometimes break down to the pragmatism of how men actually dress versus the fantasy of how we’d like to think we do. Really beautiful—if occasionally also somnolence-inducing—suits are a major feature on the Milanese runways. But there’s quite a bit of room between conservative suiting and the more outlandish high-fashion getups you see on the catwalk, and that sweet spot speaks to the way many men actually dress. Call it stylish comfort—after all, with summer just heating up in the U.S., we’re returning once again to the clothes we’d actually like to wear in warmer weather: jackets, tops, pants, and shorts that are at once easy and expressive.
At Canali, a saffron-yellow short-sleeve sweatshirt embodied this ideal: Boxy, raglan-sleeved, and paired with subtle pleated trousers, it stood out amid finely tailored soft-shoulder suits and safari jackets. Likewise, Stefano Pilati’s latest Ermenegildo Zegna collection consisted mainly of traditional-but-lovely buttoned-down pieces, though the ones that really grabbed our attention came in louder plaids, such as an asymmetrical-placketed raincoat with a full cut reined in somewhat by a cinch at the side.
The main attraction at Gucci may have been striking, brightly toned bell-bottoms, but the real hit was the shorts—in flattering cuts and varying degrees of formality—that Alessandro Michele trotted out, especially when paired with gender-fluid shirts sporting exaggerated butterfly collars. Those collars, granted, were also compelling, as were the angular nineties-channeling-the-seventies ones that Consuelo Castiglioni deployed at Marni. She featured wide collars on most of her shirts and on a tan short-sleeved jacket that nodded vaguely in the direction of workwear.
Jackets and coats, after all, aren’t off-limits just because the temperatures have climbed. Brendan Mullane’s perforated-suede navy parka at Brioni might be just the thing for cooler spring nights. Another option was a two-tone jacket from Silvia Venturini Fendi’s namesake line in a severe gray that faded to blue to complement matching trousers.
Giorgio Armani also showed a noteworthy jacket-and-pants combo, pairing a thin warm-up with cropped, wide-legged trousers in shiny, eye-catching technical fabric. And the roomy slacks from Tokyo designer Hiromichi Ochiai’s incomparably named label Facetasm possessed an understated charm of their own, with a length—hitting just above the ankle—that spoke of summer insouciance.
Best in show for Milan this season, though, went to Miuccia Prada, whose latest collection seemed a natural progression from—and a wild move beyond—her previous two menswear outings. Kid-friendly race cars, rocket ships, and bunnies replaced the minimal black-nylon palette cleanse of fall, while the top-stitched, boxy shorts that Mrs. Prada used to open the show recalled her casual-but-refined spring 2015 take on denim. Those shorts (various iterations of which appeared throughout the collection), as well as the perfect zip-up racing jackets that were another highlight, made the case that easy dressing need not lack in style.
The post The Top 10 Looks from the Men’s Shows in Milan Combine Style and Comfort appeared first on Vogue.
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