Kylie Jenner Wearing Hoodie in Video Boosts Designer’s Sales Tenfold

Kylie Jenner’s probably a muse for a lot of people, but one creative artist is especially feeling her influence as he watches his sales skyrocket … all because she wore a hoodie. Here’s what went down — the cosmetics mogul wore a hoodie made by…

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Why Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and More Designers Are Waving Goodbye To Tradition Ahead of Fashion Month

Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, NYFW Spring 2021When the coronavirus pandemic began in early 2020, some people wondered if the world would look the same when it was over.
At first, the optimists frowned at the idea that a virus could…


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Harlem’s Fashion Row to Launch Nonprofit to Help Designers

With scores of designers in need of financial assistance due to the coronavirus shutdown, Harlem’s Fashion Row is planning to launch a nonprofit titled Icon360.
The kickoff “virtual fundraiser” event is set for May 30 and aims to raise funds for designers of color. Candidates will be able to apply for Icon360 grants starting June 15.
The online event will feature an assortment of speakers, including designers Christopher John Rogers and Tracy Reese, as well as stylist Kesha McLeod and the National Basketball Association’s senior vice president of diversity and inclusion Liliahn Majeed. Rogers won the grand prize at last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. With more than 30 years of experience in the fashion industry, Reese has become increasingly focused on eco-friendly practices and sustainable option.
The virtual happening will include the option of viewing a fashion show with previous HFR designers and up-and-coming ones.
All tickets sales will benefit Icon360. Nike, Gap, Shea Moisture and Diageo are supporting the inaugural event.
By establishing the nonprofit, Harlem’s Fashion Row is aiming to provide forgivable relief to designers of color, who are pivoting their businesses and need funding to scale up. Established in 2007 by Brandice Daniel, Harlem’s Front Row supports young talent and offers a

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Fashion Fights Coronavirus: Designers Create Masks, Hospital Gowns and More to Fight Pandemic

Many of the world’s fashion designers and brands have had to halt everyday operations due to the coronavirus pandemic — but now, several firms are reallocating resources to fight the virus’ spread.
As COVID-19 cases have sharply increased, affecting 341,500 people and causing 15,187 deaths globally as of March 23, so too has the need for essential resources, such as masks, hospital gowns and hand sanitizer.
Fashion designers including Christian Siriano, Brandon Maxwell and Michael Costello are coming in to help fill that gap, mobilizing their teams to produce supplies needed by health-care workers and COVID-19 patients.
Larger companies, such as LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Kering, L’Oréal and Coty are also pitching in, having their factories produce hand sanitizer to distribute free of charge to health authorities.
Here, WWD compiles the ways that fashion designers and brands are pitching in to fight the COVID-19 pandemic.
Brandon Maxwell
Brandon Maxwell’s team is researching the appropriate medical textiles to make gowns for hospital doctors and nurses treating COVID-19 patients. He also aims to create medical grade masks and gloves as more information on manufacturing these supplies becomes available.
“It is important for us to come together now not only for each other, but most importantly for the communities

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Christian Siriano Encourages Fashion Designers to Pitch in Designing Masks for Hospital Workers

GET TO WORK: Christian Siriano is calling on other fashion designers to join his efforts to sew masks for hospital workers in the fight against the coronavirus.
After tweeting to New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo on Friday asking how he could get masks to New York City hospitals, Cuomo’s team responded immediately to help coordinate and to determine which hospital needs the masks first, Siriano said.
Now working from his home in Connecticut, Siriano said he and his team aim to make 1,000 masks for New York City hospitals in a couple of days.
Siriano also hopes that any other designer who has the production capacity to help will do so. “I really think that if anybody still has team members who are sewing or who can sew, especially in New York, we could make a few hundred a day. There are only so many people who work in a hospital. Fashion could really change everything in a week. Look, we have nothing else to do right now. Nobody is buying clothes so what can we do? I hope that everybody can pitch in.”
Siriano said, “I know that Monique Lhuillier has a full working atelier in L.A. Maybe she can help. Hopefully, everybody

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Are Guest Designers the New Engine of Fashion?

If Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo had her way, Giorgio Armani would open up his archive and atelier to Dutch couturier Iris Van Herpen for a season.
“That could create some extraordinary results,” mused Fargo, senior vice president of the fashion office and the director of women’s fashion and store presentation at the Manhattan retailer. “A guest designer or collaborator can bring a fresh take on the DNA of another brand. It’s like a duet: Think Amy Winehouse and Tony Bennett.”
While Fargo’s fantasy pairing might never happen, a growing number of marquee designers and luxury brands are inviting guest designers for a one-time appearance — or basing creative leadership based on serial collaboration rather than permanent artistic direction.
WWD has learned that Emilio Pucci, which has churned through six creative directors in the past 20 years, will now invite rotating guests to interpret its brand essence, archive and spirit, starting with French designer Christelle Kocher.
Moncler is perhaps the most prominent proponent of using serial creatives. In 2018, it invited eight designers including Pierpaolo Piccioli, Craig Green and Simone Rocha to join its new Genius project, which followed having Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne design women’s and men’s runway collections, respectively, for a decade.
Tod’s

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Designers Return to Showing, Selling Twice Year — and It Makes Sense

LONDON — The endless fashion week cycle and the physical waste it generates — between samples produced, runway show costs, plane tickets purchased, and time spent to-ing and fro-ing to showrooms — is old news. Everyone realizes it has to stop, but few are brave enough to make big changes in an inherently wasteful industry.
Designers, particularly smaller, independent brands with budgets to manage, are slowly starting to address the issue by showing two large collections a year, that can then be divided into multiple drops. This is particularly relevant for accessories, as the brands don’t have to stage fashion shows or participate as actively as their rtw-focused counterparts.
They are finding that producing two comprehensive pre-collections — and hosting showrooms during the January and June pre-collection markets — makes a lot more sense.
“Most retailers allocate 70 percent of their budget to pre-collections, which makes designing a whole new collection for ‘main’ wasteful in sample production costs,” said Estelle Orilland, who recently founded the handbag label Stee Atelier and who previously worked for the likes of Chloé, Stella McCartney and Marni as an accessories designer.
“Encouraging retailers to make two bigger orders a year instead of four smaller orders cuts delivery costs, and therefore emissions,

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Fashion Awards 2019 to Recognize the ‘Designer’s Designer’

PEER-TO-PEER: At this year’s Fashion Awards in London, the British Fashion Council will be celebrating the Designer’s Designer, an accolade that coincides with the launch of the BFC’s new membership program.
Nominees include Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic, Margaret Howell, Jonathan Anderson and Simone Rocha. The membership program’s 80 founding members will be voting for the winner of the Designer’s Designer award.
It will be presented during the 2019 ceremony, which takes place at Royal Albert Hall on Dec. 2.
According to the BFC, all nominees were chosen for having had a “global impact” and because they “moved the needle in increasing their positive brand perception” through collaborations, product design and creativity.
The new BFC membership scheme aims to raise funds for designers, business programs, education and scholarships, and wants to encourage a stronger sense of community and collaboration among its members. It also aims to tap into “a much wider community, not just the brands that are part of the schedule at London Fashion Week,” said BFC chair Stephanie Phair.
It will provide a new revenue stream for the BFC. Membership fees are based on annual turnover, and range from designer members to patron members. Businesses with up to 1 million pounds in turnover pay

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Katy Perry, Paul McCartney arrive at designer’s Rome wedding

Singer Katy Perry and her fiancé, Orlando Bloom joined an array of celebrities for the glitzy wedding of fashion designer Misha Nonoo at a 17th century Italian villa overlooking the city of Rome. Rough Cut (no reporter narration).


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Tresemmé Teams With Designers to Tackle Fashion’s Gender Leadership Gap

Tresemmé, the longtime official hair sponsor of New York Fashion Week, is taking steps to make its relationship with the shows a more meaningful one.
The Unilever-owned, mass market hair brand has teamed with fashion designers and Vital Voices Global Partnership to launch its #WomenLeadTheWay pledge, a commitment to help advance women in the fashion industry into leadership positions. Co-signed by designers and fashion labels such as Rebecca Minkoff, Jason Wu, Cushnie, Jonathan Simkhai and Studio One Eighty Nine, the announcement will be made public in a full-page ad in The New York Times on Sept. 5, the first official day of NYFW, WWD has learned.
The brand hopes to set an example by establishing and funding its own formal mentorship program within Unilever.
“As the official hair-care sponsor of New York Fashion Week for the past two decades, we want to use this platform as a way to make a change in the fashion and beauty industries,” said Jessica Grigoriou, brand engagement director for Tresemmé, noting the brand “prioritizes” partnering with hairstylists, designers and influencers “who are committed to supporting women on and off the runways” during fashion week.”
“We’ve always been a brand that supports women so we understand the impact women

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Designers & Agents Trade Show Founder Pivots to Cannabis With The Plant Lore Agency

After more than three decades in the fashion industry, most notably as the cofounder of the Designers & Agents trade show, Barbara Kramer is pivoting to cannabis.
Kramer has opened The Plant Lore, a full-service agency offering branding and product development, sales representation and retail support. Based in Los Angeles, she and her team are representing 10 high-end brands making CBD-infused products, including CBD + Nature (skincare); Gron (beauty and confections); Hello Goldie (tea); Mimoi (color face foundation with SPF); Ondo (tinctures), and Beboe (CBD vape pens). They have partnered with Wunderlich Kaplan Communications to offer brands public relations support.
“I have always been interested in coloring outside the lines,” said Kramer, whose entrepreneurial spirit has moved her from New York to L.A. several times, while she was working as a showroom owner and sales agent for such fashion brands as Tocca, Jean Paul Gaultier and Petit Bateau. She and Ed Mandelbaum started D&A in 1996, focusing on the advanced contemporary category, and expanded the fair beyond New York and L.A. to Paris and Tokyo. Over the years, she’s produced runway shows, collaborated with the CFDA on events and been a buyer for Tootsie Plohound shoe stores. Three years ago, when she started

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Paris When It Sizzles: Men’s Designers Join the Juggernaut

PARIS — There’s something about Paris, what with six packed days of men’s shows starting today, the calendar bulging with 10 more official shows and reflecting a United Nations of diverse fashion talent.
“Paris is the center of the fashion industry. It’s the pinnacle of luxury and a hub of creativity,” enthused Spencer Phipps, a San Francisco native showing at the Cite Internationale des Arts Tuesday. “Starting a business here as an American, it pushes us to innovate and puts the way people view the brand in a different context.”
Hed Mayner, based in Tel Aviv, said he chose Paris as his platform partly because he happened to live in the French capital shortly after his studies in Jerusalem, and found the team that puts together his namesake label. “Besides this, we wanted to get closer to the hub of the fashion world, which will provide us with the opportunity to increase our knowledge, and network with industry leaders and creative minds,” he added.
With men’s weeks in other capitals withering, young designers are attracted to the creative energy in Paris, and the opportunity to capture not only attention, but business, given the concentration of press, influencers and buyers congregating this week. About

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Designers on Notre-Dame

As Paris — and the world — continued to reel from the fire that devastated Notre-Dame Cathedral on Monday, designers reacted to the blaze and shared their memories of the famed landmark, the center of the City of Light.
Ralph Lauren: “We always remember where we were when tragedies occur like yesterday’s devastating fire in the cathedral of Notre-Dame. I was in a design meeting when one of my French team members uttered a cry and said, ‘Notre-Dame is in flames.’ We watched together on her iPhone as that towering spire, a landmark of Paris for centuries, collapsed. It was difficult to return to work thinking of all our friends and colleagues in Paris and in France who have suffered this loss so personally. Our thoughts are with them and our strong belief that Notre-Dame will rise from the ashes and continue to inspire not only the strong faith and resiliency of the French people, but all of us from around the world who have been touched by the beauty and history of that remarkable edifice.”
Diane von Furstenberg: “Watching it burn yesterday was heartbreaking.
“But it is standing and will be rebuilt.
“Notre-Dame de Paris is Paris.
“It is also the Victor Hugo book

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Bergdorf Goodman to Unfurl ‘Designers Off Duty,’ Showcasing Hidden Talents

Next week, Bergdorf Goodman will launch “Designers Off Duty,” a monthly series that will showcase the hidden talents and hobbies of such designers as Phillip Lim, Jason Wu, Sander Lak of Sies Marjan, Adam Lippes, Wes Gordon of Carolina Herrera, and Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Oscar de la Renta.
Lim will kick off the series Monday night with a cooking class for VIP customers and friends, featuring recipes from his recently launched cookbook, “More Than Our Bellies.” Guests will be invited to an intimate dinner at the Bergdorf Goodman restaurant where recipes from Lim’s cookbook will be served. There is no charge to participate and it’s open to a mix of VIP customers, friends of the brand and media.
“We have had a long partnership with BG, they have been supporting the brand for over a decade, and I am excited for the opportunity to share a more personal side of myself with my cookbook,” said Lim. “‘More Than Our Bellies,’ is a vehicle — much like my clothes — to continue to express love.” Lim said he’s eager to outfit his customers with clothes for the day and nurture them with food for the evening “as it is all

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Designers Take on Tutus to Benefit Young Dancers

FASHION ON POINTE: Three designer labels are pitching in to help young ballet stars pursue their dream at this year’s Youth America Grand Prix.
Monse’s Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, Carolina Herrera’s Wes Gordon and The Row’s Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have each designed one-of-a-kind tutus that will be auctioned at the YAGP’s April 18 “Stars of Today Meet the Stars of Tomorrow” gala and performance. The designer component is a new initiative called “Beautiful at the Ballet.” Once the tutus are displayed at the gala, they will be auctioned online via Charitybuzz. Proceeds from the auction will benefit YAGP educational programs to help up-and-coming dancers.
This year’s 20th anniversary YAGP is a sold-out event which will feature a mashup of YAGP young finalists and members of the international ballet circuit’s establishment performing. Guests will be the first to see “Porte Rouge,” a collaboration between Mick Jagger and Melanie Hamrick. Jagger-orchestrated Rolling Stones music will be paired with choreography by Hamrick and Jenn Delifice. Jagger and Hamrick, an American Ballet Theatre ballerina, have a toddler son, Devreaux. Organizers were not certain Monday whether Jagger, who is recovering from recent heart surgery, would be able to attend to see the work that he and

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LVMH Prize Finalists Include Two African Designers

PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has unveiled the names of the eight finalists for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, and for the first time, designers from Nigeria, South Africa and Israel have made the final round of the competition.
“We are very proud of the international dimension of the prize. It’s really what sets it apart,” Delphine Arnault, the force behind the initiative, told WWD. “The LVMH Prize is global. It reflects the fact that fashion is now a global market, with a capacity to reach and to touch more and more people, namely thanks to the Internet.”
Among those competing for a grand prize of 300,000 euros, plus a year of coaching from experts at family-controlled LVMH — the parent of brands including Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi — are four labels making gender-neutral clothes, two women’s wear designers and two men’s wear designers.
“Gender issues, and the question of women’s place in society are key concerns for young people today, I believe. It’s normal therefore for designers to seize on those topics, which inform their designs,” said Arnault, who is a key talent scout at the French luxury conglomerate.
The finalists, selected by a committee of 63 fashion industry

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China’s New Wave of Designers to Watch in Shanghai

SHANGHAI — China’s consumption power has left an indelible mark on global retail, but could its creative potential rise to that same level of impact? The jury remains out, but many attempts are being made, none more visibly than at Shanghai Fashion Week.
The event returns Wednesday and figures as China’s best place for fashion talents to showcase their collections and do serious business.
“I expect to see new creative directors to come out from this group in the near future,” said Burak Cakmak, the dean of Parsons School of Design. “In recent years, Chinese fashion designers have proven their creativity’s global relevance through the recognition they are getting at international prizes and during global fashion weeks.”
“They truly believe in what they are doing, and are not led by trend, established designers or even the market,” said Angelica Cheung, editor in chief of Vogue China. “For them, design has nothing to do with nationality, gender or age, but to express the vision. I think that’s what makes their works convincing to worldwide audiences.”
Influencer Susanna Lau, better known as Susie Bubble, has been attending Shanghai Fashion Week for the last few seasons. She had a new appreciation for what’s happening there. She said,

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A New Kind of Athleisure: These Designers Turned MLS Soccer Jerseys into High Fashion

While most fans marked the beginning of a new Major League Soccer season by suiting up in their team’s colors and heading to a game, Adidas and MLS kicked it off with something a little unorthodox: a fashion show.

 

 

Adidas, which supplies the kits for all MLS teams, partnered with the league to launch Seams, a project where a handful of young designers reimagined soccer jerseys. The idea came about as a way to connect the sport with the world of fashion—and show that there’s more than one way to wear a jersey.

“It’s a great opportunity for us to marry our culture and trends with all 24 of our clubs,” Rachel Leber, vice president of consumer products at MLS, told Men’s Journal at the event in Los Angeles.


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Four stylists and designers—Sara Gourlay, Corey T. Stokes, Andrew Andrade, and Pierre Davis—were chosen to rework the jerseys, and they created 48 different looks. We caught up with a few of them backstage before the show to learn more about how they approached the project.

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Pierre Davis, Andrew Andrade, Corey T. Stokes, Sara Gourlay BFA, Owen Kolas

 

Corey T. Stokes is a New York-based stylist and editor-at-large for High Snobiety. He worked to merge his own tailored aesthetic with the MLS jerseys, which meant rethinking what a jersey represented and styling it in innovative ways.


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“I toyed with this idea of a uniform,” he said, adding that he re-envisioned accessories, like sunglasses, and elements of a soccer kit, like shin guards. “I wasn’t too caught up on trying to fit into the soccer world, but more so taking the soccer jersey outside of it.”

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Models backstage at Seams BFA, Owen Kolas

 

Andrew Andrade, a stylist at the LA streetwear boutique FourTwoFour on Fairfax, channeled his lifelong love of soccer into the outfits he put together for Seams.

“I think soccer as a whole is already a fashionable sport,” he said, and he found inspiration from a number of famously stylish players, like Johan Cruyff and Pelé. His looks layered jerseys over and under more traditional staples—like trousers, exaggerated collars, and blazers. He described his collection as “a little bit of fashion, but more a direct reference to soccer.”


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Sara Gourlay, creative director of the women’s streetwear brand Frankie Collective, has carved a niche for herself by up-cycling vintage pieces and fabrics into imaginative women’s sportswear—pushing for a stronger female presence in streetwear, which is often dominated with men’s looks. For Seams, she applied that same reworking technique to the MLS jerseys.

“I’d say each piece is unique,” she said. “Just like the reworking, we looked at this jersey and said, ‘What can we do with it?’”

Not surprisingly, her outfits pushed the limits of what you can do with a jersey: bags, purses, and even a catsuit made from stitched-together Vancouver Whitecaps uniforms were all featured in her collection. Although the designers were using men’s jerseys, Gourlay made sure her designs included options for women as well.

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Models on the runway at Seams BFA, Owen Kolas

 

The show comes at a pivotal time for soccer, when women’s teams are pushing for equal pay and better representation. Soccer jerseys, as recent redesigns from Adidas and Nike demonstrate, are changing, too. For Gourlay, it’s all about moving beyond tired clichés of what women’s clothing should look like.

“The mindset before was that girls wanted to wear pink,” she says. “But women actually want to wear the same swag as guys. It just needs to be fitted to our bodies.”

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Men’s looks modeled on the runway at Seams BFA, Owen Kolas

 

The show also highlights how much athletic wear has influenced men’s fashion. Athleisure is everywhere, and the idea of incorporating a soccer jersey into runway looks isn’t as far-fetched an idea as it might have been a few years ago. But while sweatpants and hoodies are having their moment in the spotlight, Stokes hopes to see menswear swing back to something a little more formal.

“I think there’s a fine line with making it look on purpose and it just looking sloppy and messy,” he said. “I’m interested in the idea of dressing nice again.”

As for what’s next in men’s fashion, he sees more tailored pieces, like trousers, button-downs, even casual suits becoming more popular alongside athletic-inspired apparel. Like many of the other looks on view at Seams, Stokes’ outfits gave a glimpse at how a new wave of men’s fashion could combine traditional menswear with style elements drawn from the locker room.

“It’s still comfortable, but you focus more so on good tailoring—well-fitted clothes.”

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The Designers Behind the Chopra-Jonas Wedding, and More

MUMBAI, India — Two high-profile couples, two extravagant Indian weddings, two Instagram-frenzy inducing events — but behind them both, one design duo: Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, who not only created the brides’ opulent wedding outfits, but also the decor of both weddings.

The weddings of Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas in Rajasthan and Isha Ambani — the daughter of Mukesh Ambani, one of the world’s richest men and chairman and managing director of the $ 60 billion Reliance Industries — to billionaire Anand Piramal in Mumbai generated a slew of publicity for both couples (so much so that Chopra and Jonas were criticized for the estimated $ 800,000 cost) and attracted social media junkies worldwide who had never followed an Indian wedding before. Part of the fascination was the sheer flamboyance of the events, as well as the celebrity guests and performers — Beyoncé flew in for the Ambani wedding, for example. And Jani and Khosla dressed many of those guests as well, including one in a red tulle mirror sheet dress embellished with tiny mirror pieces and beads and an organza shoulder drape for the sangeet function, and separately a traditional dress in navy blue, with a low-waisted, embroidered multipanel skirt.

But

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Home Is Calling for Young Chinese Designers

SHANGHAI — As Champagne glasses clinked and heads of industry assembled at The Woolmark Co.’s gala in October to celebrate 50 years of trade with China, six of the country’s most successful designers presented their capsule collections made with Australian merino wool. During the event, the designers were periodically called for press photos, interviews and business introductions, yet between these obligations, they gravitated back to one another, sharing pats on the back, chats and inside jokes.
Perhaps it isn’t surprising that in the emerging pool of contemporary Chinese designers, there is camaraderie and familiarity among the biggest players. The kinship could also be down to the fact that many of them have studied at the same overseas colleges, shared the same manufacturers and suppliers, and worked in the same studios as their careers advanced.
Although many of these successful young Chinese designers studied their craft overseas — this cohort particularly favoring Central Saint Martins in London, many are now returning home to China to set up or promote their labels as the market in their homeland matures.
There is a mix of reasons why this moment in time offers a unique and exciting opportunity for Chinese designers to return home. As the nation’s economy continues

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Artists and Fashion Designers Team Up in Some Unexpected Places

Several arts-related shows and exhibitions are cropping up in fashion-friendly places.
As part of an ongoing effort to showcase artistic programs, Spring Place will be staging “Infoxication” Monday night.
The 50-minute multidisciplinary performance will feature art, music, dance and technology. The theme is technology’s presence in our lives. Infoxication is the latest arts-related collaboration at Spring, with the American Ballet Theatre and the Water Miller Center being others. Monday’s will be the first full production, and the largest one to date, with more than 20 collaborators, according to Spring Place’s art director, Roya Sachs. The full immersive experience includes product support from Google — Pixelbooks and Pixel phones. “It’s definitely in the vein of trying to create these more impactful and interactive programming and performances,” Sachs said.
The four-part experience is meant to take audience members on a visual, physical and mental journey. Ticket holders will learn the story of “waking, working, wanting and withdrawing.”
Collaborators include choreographer Dusan Tynek, a world premier composition by Danielle Eva Schwob, live body art by Heather Hansen, and performances by PubliQuartet and cellist Inbal Segev. Schwob said Friday, “Our goal has been to provide an even-sided take on people’s daily lives. It’s very easy to talk about

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Louis Vuitton Locks In Designers

PARIS — Louis Vuitton is primed to keep powering its growth trajectory with its trio of top talents.
On Wednesday, the French luxury brand, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said it has renewed Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract as artistic director of women’s collections. Specific terms of the deal were not disclosed.
The announcement cements the relationship between Vuitton and Ghesquière, who was signed on to design the company’s women’s line in 2013, succeeding Marc Jacobs. Under his tenure, the world’s biggest luxury brand has seen “unprecedented” growth in ready-to-wear and leather goods, Vuitton said in a statement.
Renewal of Ghesquière’s contract completes the trifecta of moves Vuitton needed to lock in its design talent across its various product categories for the foreseeable future. The house in March appointed Virgil Abloh to head men’s design. Off-White’s founder succeeded Kim Jones in the role and Abloh will show his first collection in June during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital (Jones, after a few months’ hiatus, returned to LVMH to take on the role of artistic director of rtw and accessories at Dior Homme).
And in April, Vuitton revealed that high-profile designer Francesca Amfitheatrof, previously of Tiffany & Co., would take over the role

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WearingIrish NYC Helps Ireland-Based Designers Make U.S. Connections

Ten designers from Ireland hoping to break into the American market, came to New York this week for the “WearingIrish NYC” event, a new platform for promoting Irish fashion.
They also came to break stereotypes of Irish design being mired in tradition and lacking modernity. Tweeds and knitwear are iconic to the region, though organizers of WearingIrish NYC say the participating designers are adept at both giving “a nod” to Ireland’s heritage and maintaining a contemporary appeal.
Selected from 170 qualified candidates, the winners included Aine, Alison Conneely, Bláithín Ennis, De Bruir, Inner Island, Jennifer Rothwell, Natalie B. Coleman, Sands and Hall, The Tweed Project and Triona. Each showed their fall 2018 collections to American retail buyers, editors, business and fashion leaders at WearingIrish NYC, a mini trade show at the Bank of Ireland, one of the sponsors of the three-day event, that also featured panels and networking. None of the designers currently sell American retailers, but some have sold products online to American consumers.
“We are firmly rooted in tradition and we work with weavers on the West Coast of Ireland. But our design philosophy is filtered through a modernist lens. Our cuts are very contemporary,” said Conneely, who utilizes Donegal tweed and Connemara lace in her

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Designers Use Epson Technology for Themed Couture Presentation

DRESSED-UP TECHNOLOGY: For a fourth year, Epson is hosting its annual “digital couture project” pre-New York Fashion Week. The theme of the Feb. 6 presentation, to be held in New York, is “Cosmopolitan Couture with Impossible Colors — How Does Your Culture Dress Up?” Participating designers from North and Latin America will showcase designs that used Epson’s textile printing solutions. Keith Kratzberg, president and chief executive officer of Epson America Inc., said the “future of fashion is customization — from the colors and prints, to the size and shape of garments — all on-demand.”
Kratzberg said the company’s “digital-imaging technology is changing the business of fashion, providing a platform for designers to print higher-quality, more unique designs for customers on-demand, as well as the ability to print just in time.”
Prior to the fashion show, Epson is hosting a panel discussion on how digital technology is changing the fashion industry. Panel participants include: interior designer Ryan Korban; Mark Sunderland from Thomas Jefferson University, and Aliza Licht, executive vice president of brand marketing and communications for Alice + Olivia.
 
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Designers Turn Out for Paris Rwanda Benefit

FESTIVE SPIRIT: It was beginning to look a lot like Christmas as guests flowed into Yannick Alléno’s three-star restaurant, the Pavillon Ledoyen, on Thursday night Numéro editor in chief Babeth Djian’s annual dinner for Rwandan children, with proceeds going to Les Amis des Enfants du Monde (Friends of the Children of the World).
Designers including Olivier Rousteing, Alber Elbaz, Alexandre Vauthier, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christan Louboutin — who took Djian for a spin on the dance floor — got into the festive spirit.
Sparkle and black was the dress code with outfits ranging from Karidja Touré’s peak-shouldered silver and black jacket by Mugler to the matching, jewelry-loaded, black and gold Saint Laurent ensembles sported by rising rock star brother-sister duo Natalie and Elliot Bergman of Wild Belle who had been flown in by the house for the event. “I love bells,” deadpanned Elliot Bergman, whipping out his phone to share a photo of a set of bronze bells he has on display in a Paris gallery. The group is recording their third album, “a back-to-roots affair,” between Chicago and Los Angeles.
Dressed in a sheer gold leaf-embroidered black gown layered over a T-shirt by Louis Vuitton, French actress Ana Girardot, who has

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Julianne Moore, Colin Firth, and Italy’s Top Designers Honor the Late Franca Sozzani in Venice

Franca Sozzani’s son Francesco Carrozzini presents the inaugural award in his late mother’s honor to Julianne Moore at the Venice Film Festival
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Style Notes: Poppy Delevingne Signs With WME and IMG Models; Khloe Kardashian Will Mentor Young Designers


In case you missed it.

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Made in America: Four Fashion Designers on What It Takes To Do So


Nanette Lepore, Billy Reid, Edie Parker’s Brett Heyman and Laurel Berman of Black Halo discuss the how and why of crafting their collections in New York, L.A. and points in between.

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Designers on the Sidelines: Former Stars Seek New Worlds

LONDON — Where are they now? Observing fashion from the sidelines — or plotting their next move?
After years — sometimes decades — of headlining major fashion houses, unprecedented numbers of design talents are no longer working in the 24/7 glare of the industry.
They’ve quit their jobs — or been sacked. Some are taking extended sabbaticals or focusing on their personal lives. Others have moved on to new industries, or are thinking of fresh approaches in a fast-changing fashion world.
Designers  who were once much fawned over and who are now on the sidelines include Riccardo Tisci, Alber Elbaz, Hedi Slimane, Stefano Pilati, Peter Copping, Francisco Costa, Rodolfo Paglialunga, Frida Giannini and Marco Zanini, to name a few. The latest left idle is Bouchra Jarrar, who exited Lanvin after showing just two collections for the house.
The cutthroat nature of the industry means big-name designers are treated like European Premier League football managers: No matter how talented you are, it’s one bad season, and you’re out, said professor Frances Corner, head of the London College of Fashion.
Industry observers — and those who work with designers — say it’s a sign of these fast-paced, digitally driven times, where the pressure is on to deliver multiple

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Exclusive Sketches: Designers Stand Behind Paris Amidst Tragedy

Designers shared with WWD their original sketches created in response to the tragic events in Paris.
RELATED CONTENT: On Twitter, Instagram Fashion Community Reacts to Tragedy in Paris>>

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Designers Apartment Cites Strong Turnout

STRENGTH IN NUMBERS: Now in its seventh season, the Designers Apartment initiative, backed by the Chambre Syndicale, has become a fixture on the Paris schedule for many a buyer.
“In terms of new talent, I thought the Designer’s Apartment showroom was excellent,” said Macy’s group vice president and fashion director Nicole Fischelis. “The quality and the diversity and the integrity of the design from each of those designers was quite remarkable.”
This season the showroom gathers 11 young France-based designers at the Atelier Richelieu until Oct. 9, including three newcomers, A. Guery, Criloi and Victoria/Tomas.
Glenn Martens, designer for Y/Project, perhaps one of the most established brands showing, was attending for the fourth time.
“It’s very difficult to get a foot in the door as a young designer, and being backed by the Chambre Syndicale is a big help,” he said, specifying that the initiative was also useful for exchanging tips on issues like production and logistics between designers.
“A lot of good stores have come,” he added of the current session.
Iris Cantabri, showing for the fourth time, was offering a less conceptual collection than in the past in order to appeal to a broader audience, and had also dropped prices to an average of

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The Designers Behind Common Projects on the Brand’s 10-Year Success


Peter Poopat and Flavio Girolami rarely like to speak about the brand, but on Tuesday evening, the dynamic duo did a Q&A with MR PORTER editor Dan Rookwood.

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Tom Ford Taps a Lady: Gaga to Appear in Designer’s Runway Video for Spring 2016

LONDON — Tom Ford is taking to the small screen to showcase his spring 2016 collection, putting paid to speculation that he was skipping the show season altogether.
The designer has tapped Lady Gaga to appear in the film, a runway video of the collection, which was shot by Nick Knight. The online video will be released to some editors in the early hours of Friday, and everyone will be able to view it at 1 p.m. CET on the designer’s Web site.
Ford told WWD: “Instead of having a traditional show this season, I decided to try something new. I wanted to think about how to present a collection in a cinematic way that was designed from its inception to be presented online.”
Ford’s choice is no shocker. The designer-turned-film director is in full production for his second big-screen effort, “Nocturnal Animals,” and will be shooting that until the end of November. The film stars Amy Adams and Jake Gyllenhaal, and is an adaptation of the 1993 novel “Tony and Susan” by Austin Wright, which is a novel within a novel. The movie is due for release next year.
The all-star cast also includes Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Armie Hammer, Isla Fisher, Kim Basinger, and costume design

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International Designers Set Up Showrooms for Paris Fashion Week

PARIS — Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen aren’t the only out-of-town designers with Paris on their mind. Czech, Chinese, German and Belgian creators, among others, set up showrooms to attract international attention during Paris Fashion Week.
The French fashion’s governing body dubs the designers coming as far afield as China, Finland, Austria and Great Britain as “Les Bienvenus à Paris” (“The Welcome to Paris”).
Paris has always appreciated talented non-French designers — think Raf Simons at Dior, Phoebe Philo at Céline, the fashion collective behind Vêtements or Sacai’s Chitose Abe — who show in Paris.
The Row slipped a presentation into the already-packed Paris calendar on the first day of the season, giving a strong signal that Paris is more than ever a huge draw.
Around 50,000 professionals flow into the City of Light for its fashion week.
“Paris is a lab to discover [talents]….Paris is to fashion what Silicon Valley is to new technologies,” said Serge Carreira, a lecturer at Sciences Po Paris.
Pre Helsinki, an event aiming to raise awareness of Finnish designers, returns to Paris for its third installment. Satu Maaranen, the platform’s cofounder and creative director and a past Hyères winner, explained: “Paris is the most important area to be represented in, in

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Top 25 Red Carpet Designers 2015


Those dresses you saw at the Emmys didn’t just happen. They began in the imagination of these talents, who use Hollywood stars as both muse and marketing, as the billion-dollar players talk shop on the eve of awards-season domination. Says Tom Ford: “It’s about dressing the right person in the right dress to create a truly memorable moment.”

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London’s Designers Burst Into New Categories

LONDON – Bigger equals better.
As London Fashion Week shifts into high gear, designers up and down the calendar are building out their brands, firing off capsule collections and marching into new categories as funding flourishes and the British economy continues to grow. Peter Pilotto, Pringle, Christopher Kane and Osman are among the names branching out into new categories as their businesses gain increasing traction in a city more famous for struggling — rather than commercially successful — runway talent.
“The vibe in London is completely different from the one in Paris right now,” said Gavin Haig, Belstaff’s chief executive officer and the former international managing director of Cartier, based in Paris. “London and the U.K. are in great shape compared with Paris and Milan, and the economy here is growing. The funding is here, and it’s a great city both for customers and trade.”
Belstaff is ramping up its own London-based business with enhanced men’s, women’s and accessories lines and a new collaboration with David Beckham. The former footballer appears in “Outlaws,” a short film that will be released Tuesday following the brand’s London Fashion Week show.
Fabrizio Zappaterra, a private equity investor who is on the boards of Temperley London and Hunter, said that

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Designers Named for CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s Americans in Paris

NEXT STOP PARIS: As New York Fashion Week starts to wind down, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen aren’t the only designers with Paris on their minds. The Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue have unrolled the roster for the ninth season of CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s Americans in Paris.
The France-bound designers are Orley’s Alex, Matthew and Samantha Orley; Edie Parker’s Brett Heyman; Simon Miller’s Daniel Corrigan and Jake Sargent; Eva Fehren’s Eva Zuckerman; Gigi Burris Millinery’s Gigi Burris; Grey Ant’s Grant Krajecki and Natalie Levy; Ryan Roche, and Tanya Taylor. Zuckerman and Roche were runners-up for last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.
During Paris Fashion Week, all of the above will be showing their collections to retailers from Oct. 3 to 5 at Le 8 Vavois, which is located at 8 Rue de Valois. In addition to the showroom space, Americans in Paris provides sales, marketing and media support to participants to help them expand their  businesses.
Steven Kolb, president and chief executive officer of the CFDA, said, “Americans in Paris continues to put forward CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund designers who represent a level of talent that can compete in today’s global market.”
Tumi is the initiative’s lead sponsor for the fourth season. Micheal Petry,

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Kanye’s Decision to Show Yeezy Season 2 Disrupts Designers’ Plans

Kanye West’s show, a last-minute addition to New York Fashion Week on Wednesday, Sept. 16 at noon, is causing headaches for at least one fashion designer. Anne Bowen, who planned to launch her new streetwear collection, Nomad VII by Anne Bowen, at the exact same time, is up in arms and scrambling to reschedule.
Another headache: Naeem Khan is also scheduled to show in Kanye’s new time slot.
Bowen told WWD: “We have been prepping for a year for this at considerable financial, labor- and commitment-cost to our company. Our show date has been scheduled for months and has been on the Fashion Calendar for weeks. We went through all the proper channels to make this a reality. And just yesterday we learned that Kanye West is having a show at the same time on the same date as ours.”
“Kanye knows he is a media sensation and it is just not ethical to do this. It’s like we are David and he is Goliath. We have put our heart and soul into our show, and should not be stepped on like this,” continued Bowen.
Consequently, Bowen said she has to move her show date to Thursday, Sept. 17 at 12:30 at the same

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The Sophomores: Novice Designers Talk About Their Return to NYFW

Three designers who launched their collections at New York Fashion Week in February — Gabriela Hearst, Ji Oh and Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock, the husband-and-wife team behind Brock Collection — discuss what they learned from their first experience and what they changed for their second act.
WWD: What was the most exciting part of planning your first NYFW presentation last season?
Gabriela Hearst: It was our launch season and we’d been conceptualizing the project for more than two years, so it had been a long journey to get there. Only a few trusted key people had seen the collection so we were very excited to finally show it.
Ji Oh: The most exciting part for me was the casting. Finding the right face and the right attitude isn’t so easy, but still very fun. When a girl comes in and tries my clothes on and looks great, nothing makes me happier.
Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock: Seeing the world we dreamt of come together was the most exciting part. The days before our presentation were our favorite — the styling, casting, hair and makeup tests, and set design.
 
WWD: What was the most stressful or frustrating part?
G.H.: As the debut season was a very personal collection,

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How to Pull Off an Alexander Wang Haircut: Bangs, Bobs, and More at the Designer’s Spring Show

alexander wang beauty hair

It was something of a homecoming for Alexander Wang. Before taking his final bow at Balenciaga early next month, his 10th anniversary show for his namesake label reminded tonight’s New York audience of what he does best—make cool downtown girls look even cooler. Only this time around, the Wang Gang was more eclectic than ever. Gone were the uniform Erin Wasson–inspired air-dried waves of his early collections. Instead, Anna Ewers, Binx Walton, Kasia Struss, and Mica Arganaraz stomped down the runway in a range of easy styles—from bedhead texture hanging loosely over their shoulders, to knots fastened into sporty sprays at the nape, and fuzzy waves falling over their eyes—not without a few major cut and color transformations, of course. “There’s not one singular idea of beauty anymore,” said hairstylist Guido Palau backstage, pointing out the height variation in the model lineup (runway sophomore Molly Bair clocks in at a towering 6 feet). “It’s really about bringing out your personality.”



alexander wang beauty

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Photo: Sonny Vandevelde / Indigitalimages.com

A look around the room was proof that he had done just that. The girls were beaming. “What we’ve done is emphasize [their natural hair] with [Redken Wind Blown] . . . or a pair of scissors.” Through a tousle of fingers, a snip of length, fringe, or buzzed reshaping, Palau sought to give an edge to each model’s personal style. For Irina Kravchenko, a new set of micro bangs had her calling home to the Ukraine. “I feel so fresh!” she said. Peyton Knight shook off nearly a foot of her wavy brunette for a freshly shorn shag—and as divergent as the style may have been, “It makes me feel more me.” Just before making her runway debut, newcomer Lucinda Schaefers said goodbye to six inches of length, for a look that she described simply as “stronger.” After the last girl exited the runway, Wang played a video montage celebrating his whirlwind career, reminding us, in his words, that when it comes to hair or work, “It’s not worth it if you’re not having fun—you won’t get to enjoy it.”

The post How to Pull Off an Alexander Wang Haircut: Bangs, Bobs, and More at the Designer’s Spring Show appeared first on Vogue.

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Australian Designers to Show in Paris

AUSSIES TAKE TO PARIS AND NEW YORK: After four seasons showing off-schedule in Paris, 31-year-old Perth designer Kym Ellery is moving up to the major leagues. On Oct. 6 at 9.30 a.m. at a to-be-confirmed Paris venue, Ellery will show her spring 2016 collection as part of the Chambre Syndicale’s official schedule for the first time.
Known for her voluminous tailoring and signature oversize bell sleeves and bell-bottom flares, the designer looked for inspiration this season to the 1969 Wrapped Coast project by French environmental sculptors Christo and Jeanne-Claude, which saw 1.5 miles of Sydney’s coastline wrapped in one million square feet of fabric and rope. Ellery’s collection riffs on the draping and wrapping of the body via drawstrings and metal eyelets, many iterations of the cotton shirt and prints inspired by Australian flora and marine coral.
“It feels a little surreal, but also like I’ve been given the green light to just go hard,” Ellery said of being on the official Paris schedule.
Ellery forms part of an expanded Oz presence in Paris this season. Taking a leaf out of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s Americans in Paris book, the Australian Fashion Chamber will stage a 3,767-square-foot Australian Designers Abroad showroom at No.

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Designers Dish: Shoe Mastermind Gianvito Rossi


The Milanese shoe designer mingled (and sipped martinis) with Chrissy Teigen and Mischa Barton, while showing off his newest collection, at Barneys New York in Beverly Hills Thursday evening.

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Nicaragua’s Young Designers Eye Expansion

MANAGUA, Nicaragua — Nicaraguan emerging designers Shantall Lacayo and Ana Alexandra Velazquez are aiming to tap overseas markets by showing at Paris’ Who’s Next in September.
Lacayo, who has sales of $ 80,000 a year, hopes to open 12 points of sale over the next three to five years, with tentative plans to market in Paris, Dubai, Miami, Los Angeles and New York.
In the near-term, she hopes to open doors in Honduras and El Salvador to take her count beyond her current four points of sale in Nicaragua and Panama. Further into the future, she hopes to enter the U.S. and Europe.
“I would love to find an agent to represent me in Paris and one day sell in Bloomingdale’s or Saks [Fifth Avenue],” said Lacayo, who also helps direct the Nicaragua Diseña trade fair, which has an expanding fashion wing that also showcases other design talents.
Lacayo, who was second finalist in the 2010 edition of “Project Runway Latin America,” hopes her spring 2016 will attract attention at Porte de Versailles.
Dubbed “Gypsy Goddess,” the collection features several embroidered dresses inspired by the Nicaraguan genciana flower and featuring geometric and Cubist prints evoking the Seventies. The most popular item has been a handmade, dark-blue nylon-mesh gown

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Lakme Fashion Week to Showcase 100 Designers

MUMBAI, India — There is even more glitz and party spirit at Lakme Fashion Week as the event continues the 15-year celebrations that began with the LFW summer-resort season last March.
The five-day winter/festive season opened Wednesday featuring 100 designers, a big leap from 84 in March. It is being seen as a time to take stock, both of the industry and of the event, which opened with a pre-event show on Tuesday by long-established designer duo Sandeep Khosla and Abu Jani.
The show set the tone for pomp as well as partying with glamorous embroidered evening dresses, a cream and gold color palette and retro music that had the audience foot tapping.
“We have the senior most fashion designers such as Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, Neeta Lulla, Anita Dongre and then we have the younger designers who are launched with the event. That’s the charm of Lakme Fashion Week,” Saket Dhankar, vice president and head of fashion at IMG Reliance Ltd., said.
The fashion week is organized by IMG Reliance Pvt. Ltd., a venture between Reliance Industries Ltd. and sports marketing and management company IMG Worldwide, in collaboration with beauty brand Lakme, which is a subsidiary of consumer goods

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Two Cult L.A. Designers Collaborate on a Sculptural Ceramics Line

dream collective

Each Friday this summer, Kathryn Bentley (designer of the cult Los Angeles jewelry line Dream Collective) and Bari Ziperstein (whose intricate B.Zippy ceramics are a favorite among the fashion and art crowd) spent the day together in Ziperstein’s L.A. studio as a sort of thought experiment. “We discovered similar ways of thinking about structure, pattern, and materials,” says Bentley, who has long collected Ziperstein’s work and also stocked it in her Silver Lake store for the past year. “We talked about everything from angled structures of Cold War Brutalist architecture to the color and patterns of the Memphis Milano movement and raw clay surfaces reminiscent of Future Primitive sculptures.”

The conversations naturally led to a collaboration, and the resulting series of B.Zippy for Dream Collective pots and vases debuted at Dream Collective’s storefront this week. The collection, like all of Ziperstein’s work, is both functional and strikingly sculptural; its column motifs, drip patterns, and matte finishes directly resulted from the duo’s dialogue about aesthetics. And though Bentley left the hands-on making of the pieces to Ziperstein, it was “an intellectual collaboration; we have a similar creative process,” she says. “Bari is a thinker and a true artist.”

Available at Dream Collective, 1404 Micheltorena Street, Los Angeles; dreamcollective.com.



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Photo: Courtesy of Dream Collective

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Fashion Flashback: What Top Designers Wore in High School

They wore bell-bottoms wider at the hem than at the waist, shoulder pads a linebacker would envy, glittery butterfly hair clips, fuzzy boas, and, of course, a few “sewed-it-myself” looks. When WWD asked designers — from Tommy Hilfiger and Norma Kamali to Brian Atwood and Pamela Love — to share memories of their back-to-school fashion choices, we discovered some were preppy wannabes and others were fans of grunge, but most were just teens trying to find their own personal style.

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Swarovski Collective 2016 Designers Announced

Swarovski announced the 15 designers who will participate in the Swarovski Collective 2016, a one-year program during which they will receive financial support and crystal product from the company. They are Alexander Lewis, Christian Wijnants, Creatures of the Wind, David Koma, Emilia Wickstead, Esteban Cortázar, Haizhen Wang, Iris van Herpen, Peter Pilotto, Rosie Assoulin, Tanya Taylor, Thomas Tait, Tim Coppens, Tome and Vivienne Hu.
“It is a pleasure to build on the success of the Swarovski Collective with this new lineup of creatives, and our ongoing commitment to emerging talent with the Swarovski Collective Prize,” said Nadja Swarovski, member of the Swarovski Executive Board. “This is an exceptional group of designers, and we look forward to seeing them innovate with crystal looks over the coming year.”
One of the 15 designers will win the 25,000 euro ($ 27,500 at current exchange) Swarovski Collective Prize in May 2016.
“I’m excited to be part of the Swarovski Collective and to be using crystals as a creative ingredient for the first time to add a new dimension to my collection,” said Thomas Tait.
Rosie Assoulin noted, “We are so honored to be working with Swarovski and to have the opportunity to really dive into their treasure trove

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Sara Lundberg Scoops Designers’ Nest Prize at Copenhagen Fashion Week

ROYAL PRIZE: Crown Princess Mary of Denmark wearing Danish label Fonnesbech presented Sara Lundberg with the Designers’ Nest prize.
The talent show and award organized by trade fair Revolver was held Friday afternoon during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
A jury that included London-based designer Peter Jensen, Eyes on Talents’ cofounder Guillaume de Piédoüe and fashion scholar Ane Lunge Jorlen selected the 28-year-old Swedish designer as the winner of the competition.
“She expressed the way we convey emotions today is through emojis, and how fashion has become a new community,” Lunge Jorlen explained.
“Her statement was very strong: fashion turned into a totem, a sculpture,” de Piédoüe said. The co-founder of the online platform for connecting brands with international design talents sees a “good combination of technical skills and creativity among Scandinavian designers.”
Lundberg, who just graduated from at the Swedish Schools of Textiles and cites Rei Kawakubo among her favorite designers, is to start a PhD in fashion design in Vilnius, Lithuania  this fall. “I want to discuss things, and continue to do projects about humanity,” she told WWD.
Lundberg was one of 24 students from eight schools in Nordic countries competing for the prize, valued at 50,000 Danish kroner, or $ 7,310 at current exchange.
Louise Wanggren also from

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Singapore Designers Tour Prabal Gurung’s Showroom With CFDA

FASHION LESSONS WITH PRABAL: On Thursday morning, as part of the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Fashion Futures program — launched in partnership with Singapore Fashion Week in May — three Singapore-based designers touched down at Prabal Gurung’s atelier in the heart of New York City’s Garment District for a chat and tour. The experience was just a small part of the jam-packed, three-day immersive fashion program aimed at nurturing rising fashion talent in the Southeast Asia country.
The itinerary, organized by the CFDA and Mercury Marketing and Communications, will introduce the three established designers — Chelsea Scott-Blackhall of Dzojchen, Sabrina Goh of Elohim, and Priscilla Ong of Ong Shunmugam — to the American fashion industry via designer showroom visits (to Carolina Herrera’s, Diane von Furstenberg’s and Thakoon Panichgul’s, in addition to Gurung’s) and meetings with fashion public relations firms and retailers such as Kirna Zabête and Fivestory. As part of the trip, the trio will also tour the CFDA Fashion Incubator and visit a New York manufacturing operation under the CFDA’s Fashion Manufacturing Initiative.
Blackhall and Ong have run their respective women’s contemporary sportswear brands locally in Singapore for five years; Goh has had her brand for six. Gurung, who is

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London’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise Names Designers to Pioneer Program

YOUNG PIONEERS: The Centre for Fashion Enterprise, a British business incubator, has announced the six London-based designers who will join its New Fashion Pioneer Program, which runs for six months. They are the LVMH Grand Prix scholarship winner Richard Malone; women’s wear designer Min Wu; Lei Sihan of the jewelry brand Lion Studio; the design duo Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe of the sustainable women’s wear label Gyo Yuni Kimchoe; performance active wear designer Charlie Cohen; and Fashion East men’s wear designer Grace Wales Bonner.
“These Pioneer designers represent a new crop of talent who are breaking the mold. They redefine what a fashion business is, and illustrate that today’s new designers can explore design, fashion and product from a range of different angles with sufficient talent to lead new markets,” said Wendy Malem, director of the CFE.
“Since we launched our label, we have faced so many difficulties and problems in various areas and the program and the support it provides will be such a huge help to overcome these obstacles and grow as a sustainable business,” said designer Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe. Among the program’s alumni are fashion labels Erdem, Thomas Tait, Marques’Almeida, Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto and Craig

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Flashback Friday: That Time Kim Kardashian Walked in Ed Hardy Designer’s Fashion Show


Christian Audigier passed away Thursday.

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We Are The Future: Italy’s New Wave Of Visionary Designers

By Chiara Tronville

Yesterday’s emerging talent, today’s visionary designers. An update on Made in Italy with 16 dreamers-entrepreneurs.

Don’t call them young, don’t call them new: the designers in this article are the already-recognized evolution of Italian fashion. They did their best, challenging a market dominated by luxury brands, deciding to work for themselves in an uncertain historical period. And they’ve done it. It can be seen in their sales and their followers.

Despite their differences, there is a fine red thread that links them together: the humility with which they started up: in silence, taking samples around in the trunks of their cars, looking for a break abroad, working day and night in the offices of a fashion house. But it’s also the determination in wanting to do it their way, looking for investors, suppliers, small workshops for production, going to the basics of materials and hand craftsmanship, taking on the role of entrepreneur. Few of them have an established business behind them. This has made them freer, more curious, cultured travelers. With a calculator in their hands, sure, but with visionary talent.

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi managed to first convince the stars and then the critics. His journey began in 1999, when the designer from Messina flew to LA, looking for America. Today he shows in Milan (and his catwalk, with its lights, music and atmosphere, is one of the most eagerly anticipated and spectacular) and is represented in 160 boutiques worldwide. Strong vibrant colors, pop prints, leather and studs are his signature looks. But behind his friendship with celebrities, there is his cultured and mature attention to every detail: rigorously hand-embroidered by a top secret Lombard workshop.

A-Lab
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Alessandro Biasi

It should have been a collective project between art and fashion: it became an international clothing brand. Created by Alessandro Biasi and produced exclusively in Milan, A-Lab has become famous by looking forwards, with the shape of its armour-clothes (some, from their debut, still numbered like pieces of art) and by using digital communication: “A parallel reality, which doesn’t always correspond to the truth.”

Andrea Pompilio
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Andrea Pompilio. ©Alessandro Furchino

There are three fundamental moments in the story of Andrea Pompilio: the shock on his grandmother’s face when, age eight, he revealed he wanted to work in fashion; the move from Pesaro to Milano and the decision to go it alone (his brand debuted in 2010 with the first women’s collection in 2013). There’s just been one emotional crisis in NYC, after arriving in Calvin Klein’s style office, because he didn’t know anyone in the city. Everything else has been work, intuition and solid experience for his cv (also with Prada). His garments are now in 37 points of sale, and focus on the idea of masculine sartorial style. “I define myself as classic: duffle coats and double-breasted designs are never missing from my collections.”

Andrea Incontri
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Andrea Incontri. © Giovanni Gastel

From Mantua, he’s gentle in his actions, with a poetic but functional approach to fashion, and never mainstream. After starting off with a strong design focus and a passion for tactile experiences (he was working as a consultant for a fabrics firm), he debuted with his own brand in 2009. He loves silence, the elegance of days gone by and the ability of the Japanese to remain in equilibrium between sobriety and madness. These inspirations emerge between the lines of his men and women’s collections, in which he puts together clean lines and special materials (also hitech). Recognition of his talent for accessories has led him to become, from two seasons, the creative director of Tod’s men’s collection.

Marco De Vincenzo
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Marco De Vincenzo. ©Letorres

After graduating from IED, Marco De Vincenzo (1978, Aries) found out that there would be interviews at Fendi the following day. He introduced himself, literally, and was taken on. From then on he grew in the design office of the fashion house, working side by side with Silvia Venturini. Above all he learned “to not trust the obvious and to not be afraid of making brave decisions.” So much so that he launched his own line, with a first show in Paris in 2009. Today the boy from Messina is, for creativity and preciousness, among the most respected of the new Made in Italy fashion. His signature piece? “The skirt, symbol of femininity and movement.”

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De Vincenzo: “Futuristic head, old print of Vulcano Island, a contemporary portrait of a woman: my ideal mix.”

Daniele Carlotta
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Daniele Carlotta. ©Marco Falcetta

Brought up in Modica (Ragusa) among the precious materials of his mother’s shop, known as “The Lady of Silk,” Daniele Carlotta (born in 1985) has a sense for materials, a taste for contrasts and a sexy aesthetic which goes beyond European borders. In fact, only two years after the launch of his first collection he is already present in one hundred boutiques around the world. Meanwhile, given his passion for the atelier dimension and a direct relationship with clients, the Sicilian designer is thinking of a made-to-measure project.

Au Jour Le Jour
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Au Jour Le Jour. ©Ryan Jerome

A meeting at a Milanese party: they talked about fashion. Thinking about it, Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez (35 and 40 years old respectively) were right. They agreed on the fact that something was missing from the Italian panorama: a brand which would be strong and funny (at an affordable price). So they created it in 2010. Notoriety came straight away through social media, where they became the favored designers of bloggers and friends. The digital word-of-mouth was so intense as to get to Giorgio Armani himself, who then wanted to endorse them, having them as guests in his theatre for their first official show. A men’s collection followed and global visibility. Their best sellers? For her, t-shirt dresses, a piece which is now in continuous production. For him, patterned sweatshirts and t-shirts.

Greta Boldini
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Alex Flagella and Michela Musco. ©Carlotta Bertelli

They fell in love, but after Polimoda they couldn’t find satisfying work for both of them in the same city. So Alex Flagella (31) and Michela Musco (28) founded, in 2011, the Roman atelier Greta Boldini. In a short time it transformed into a label looking for a fresh sartorial approach, a new generation. Today the design duo are on their sixth collection. “With the last collections we started from scratch, turning to a more minimalist taste, which still focuses on hand-embroidered details, but in a more wearable version. Also for daywear, with straight tunics and flat sandals.”

MSGM
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Massimo Giorgetti. ©Emilio Tini

He began with streetwear, and has excelled both at using colors and marketing. The result: more than 600 shops in six years with his brand MSGM and the appointment as Creative Director at Emilio Pucci. Massimo Giorgetti, from Rimini, had a genial intuition: to enter into a slice of the middle market with an instantly recognizable, energetic and day-to-day product. A determining factor in the extraordinary success he’s had has been his partnership with the manufacturer (the Paoloni Group) and the distributor (the showroom of Riccardo Grassi), solid Italian realities.

Marco Grisolia
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Marco Grisolia.

As well as being a designer, Marco Grisolia (37 years old) is also a teacher and a stylist. This versatility has made him independent; allowing him to dedicate himself to fashion like a personal project, free from market logic. His niche product anticipates (or follows) contemporary trends. His shapes? Oversize. “I believe in mental and physical comfort, far away from the obsession of showing off the body at all costs.”

Gabriele Colangelo
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Gabriele Colangelo.

When he works on a collection, he begins with a theme, translating it into new tactile experiences. After all, the passion for experimenting with materials is in his DNA. Born in 1975, Gabriele Colangelo is, in fact, the son of a family of Milanese furriers. His career is punctuated with institutional awards. Distributed globally, his clean and geometric collections are much appreciated in Asia (in particular Korea, Japan and Hong Kong). From this season he is also Creative Director of Giada, a Chinese luxury brand totally manufactured in Italy.

ComeforBreakfast
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Antonio Romano e Francesco Alagna.

For their label (created in September 2010) they chose an original phrase: a breakfast invitation: “It’s the moment of the day that we both prefer, the one we like to share.” Antonio Romano and Francesco Alagna love to be direct, no filters, and they place themselves out of the pack: “Comeforbreakfast? An independent, experimental, intimate brand.” Among their best-selling pieces, tailored jackets and, surprisingly, sandals, a well-liked limited edition. They are among the selection for the Woolmark Prize 2015, which will be assigned in the next months.

Alberto Zambelli
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Alberto Zambelli.

Cultured in his citations and in the use of materials, Alberto Zambelli has worked in fashion for many years and, for the last two seasons, has started to follow a personal route: “I preferred to get the right experience in order to be able to tackle the creation of a high brand of prêt à porter.” Meanwhile he shares his time between China, where he is the creative director of a contemporary colored collection with capillary distribution, and Japan, where he is developing a Made in Italy line, with a definite essential feel for a third party. His passion for Asia can be seen in his pieces, which he defines as minimal decorative (at the moment only available in China, Korea and Japan): wild but with PVC embroidery and Swarovski crystals.

Main image: Fausto Puglisi after the défilé A/W 2015. ©Luca Cannonieri

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Designers, Artists Gather for L.A.’s Arts District Parachute Market

Designers and artists will descend on the newly built One Santa Fe mixed-use project in downtown Los Angeles’ Arts District for the biannual Parachute Market.
The design fest culls its featured exhibitors from the local design community for a “pop-up” art and retail event June 6 and 7. Quincy Jones Productions partnered with Parachute on a June 5 preview featuring jazz pianist Alfredo Rodriguez and a screening of “Synesthesia.”
Exhibitors include Welcome Projects, Knibb Design, Reform Gallery and Matin.

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Russian designers bring politics to catwalk

Russian fashion designers present their new political-minded collections on a Moscow catwalk. Rough Cut (no reporter narration).


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British Designers Attend the UK Fashion & Textiles Awards

MATERIAL MATTERS: British textile companies, retailers and designers gathered to honor industry creatives at the annual UK Fashion & Textiles Awards held in east London on Thursday night.
“It celebrates all the people that you don’t normally hear about in the press,” said Patrick Grant, who presented the textiles manufacturer award to Joshua Ellis & Co. “The manufacturers, the textile suppliers, the printers. I mean of course there are some brands in there as well but you know it’s really, it’s a very different mix of winners this evening.”
Held at Tobacco Dock, the awards ceremony was hosted by Jack Guinness and model Amber Le Bon along with a panel of judges including Grant, Henry Holland and Harvey Nichols fashion buying director Anita Barr.
Three-time award winner Christopher Raeburn was among the guests at the black tie affair including UKFT president Princess Anne, Dominic Jones, Lulu Kennedy, Mary Portas, and Tallulah Harlech. There was also a runway show featuring various looks from the nominees.
Raeburn said he’s looking forward to showing his men’s wear collection in London, and is mulling doing an event in New York for the new fashion showcase there. “We’re well on track. It’s a very different concept and a bigger collection

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British Designers Create Chairs for Selfridges Charity Initiative

CHAIR-ITABLE CAUSE: Selfridges has collaborated with The Art Room, a charity supported by the Duchess of Cambridge, on a collection of 90 chairs by artists and designers including Tom Dixon, Paul Smith, Hervé Léger, Alice Temperley, Lulu Guinness, Charlotte Olympia, Hannah Weiland of Shrimps and Cara Delevingne.
Arts consultant Flora Fairbairn and her team gave each designer a chair to design – without a specific brief. “We approached at least 250 people,” said Fairbairn, co-founder of Fair & Co., an arts consultancy firm,  It was a very short time frame. I think we started in March. We gave them the chair, and then we told them to bear in mind that people will be looking up at the chair, so you gotta take that into account. It is really exciting to see the result because they are so varied, because obviously they are all the same chair.”
Produced and curated by Fair & Co., the chairs will be on show, suspended on wires in Selfridges’ central atrium, for six weeks. The items will be listed for auction starting May 22 through Paddle8, an online auctioneer. A live auction to take place at Selfridges on June 9.
In addition, Selfridges has created a pop-up art

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City of Atlanta Creates Grants for Fashion Designers

ATLANTA — The Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs in partnership with RagTrade Atlanta has created the Atlanta Emerging Fashion Designer Grant that will award five fashion designers $ 1,500 each to assist with building their businesses in Atlanta.
The award is designed to support American fashion designers based in the City of Atlanta. It is an expansion of the city’s already existing Emerging Artist Award created a several years ago to provide grant opportunities to cultural, nonprofit and community organizations and to individuals, said Camille Russell Love, executive director of the Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs. “We support artists in Atlanta with an award to pursue their craft in Atlanta,” she said. That includes artists, writers, dancers, musicians, those involved in film — and now fashion.
“We believe that this grant program will not only benefit the growth of our fashion community, but the city as well,” Love added. “Atlanta is a hub of creativity and is really expanding its reach to artists and help fuel their creativity,” Love said. “We want to make Atlanta where they want to be.”
Acknowledging that fashion designers often leave Atlanta to pursue their careers in New York, Los Angeles or elsewhere, Angela Watts, founder of RagTrade Atlanta and president

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City of Atlanta Creates Grants for Fashion Designers

ATLANTA — The Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs in partnership with RagTrade Atlanta has created the Atlanta Emerging Fashion Designer Grant that will award five fashion designers $ 1,500 each to assist with building their businesses in Atlanta.
The award is designed to support American fashion designers based in the City of Atlanta. It is an expansion of the city’s already existing Emerging Artist Award created a several years ago to provide grant opportunities to cultural, nonprofit and community organizations and to individuals, said Camille Russell Love, executive director of the Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs. “We support artists in Atlanta with an award to pursue their craft in Atlanta,” she said. That includes artists, writers, dancers, musicians, those involved in film — and now fashion.
“We believe that this grant program will not only benefit the growth of our fashion community, but the city as well,” Love added. “Atlanta is a hub of creativity and is really expanding its reach to artists and help fuel their creativity,” Love said. “We want to make Atlanta where they want to be.”
Acknowledging that fashion designers often leave Atlanta to pursue their careers in New York, Los Angeles or elsewhere, Angela Watts, founder of RagTrade Atlanta and president

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Singapore Fashion Week Boosts Local and International Designers

SINGAPORE — Victoria Beckham’s fall 2015 collection concluded Singapore Fashion Week Sunday night, a culmination of a whirlwind partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America to bring wider recognition to local designers.
While seen as a hub for consumerism, this Southeast Asian nation has lagged behind in garnering attention for its homegrown designer labels. This year’s collaboration with CFDA attempted to inject international interest in three chosen Singaporean brands — Elohim by Sabrina Goh, Dzojchen by Chelsea Scott-Blackhall and Ong Shunmugam by Priscilla Shunmugam – giving them the opportunity to show in New York in July during the men’s shows and allowing them access to advice from Diane von Furstenberg, Thakoon Panichgul and Victoria Beckham during Singapore Fashion Week. Staging their shows alongside local and regional brands, the five-day event drew a diverse crowd of Asian celebrities.
Unfortunately, the biggest star attraction, Cate Blanchett, initially slated to attend Australian designer Dion Lee’s fall show, had to bow out due to scheduling conflicts with the Cannes International Film Festival.
Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of CFDA, said American designers were eager to showcase in Singapore because it could act as a gateway to the rest of Asia.
“Everybody wants to sell in Asia, everybody wants

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Designers Dish: Roger Vivier’s Bruno Frisoni


The red-carpet footwear designer unveiled some more masculine styles during his Paris Fashion Week presentation.

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Argentine designers showcase edgy moods and neutral wools

Argentina’s top fashion designers including Min Agostini and Laurencio Adot present their 2015 Fall/Winter collections at the Designers Look Buenos Aires F W 2015 event in the capital. Rough cut – no reporter narration


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Alexander Wang’s Brunette Brigade: The Designer’s Model Army Goes Goth

Alexander Wang backstage beauty

It was a little darker than usual backstage today at Alexander Wangs downtown Pier 36 show space, where models peeked out from behind slick, slightly matted strands of jet-black hair. Among the designer’s usual lineup of raven-hued favorites, including Kendall Jenner, Binx Walton, Jamie Bochert, and Catherine McNeil, there were a few formerly blonde faces shrouded in inky, choppy layers. For Wang’s fall 2015 collection of chained, studded, and shredded separates, hairstylist Guido Palau explained, “We dyed a few of the girls black this week, because it’s just a dark-haired look. The blondes look good, but this was a heavy goth moment. I mean, listen to this music,” he said, pointing to a speaker pumping out Prodigy. “Wait until you see the shoes.”

A handful of models—including a formerly platinum Ashleigh Good—were sent to colorist Victoria Hunter at Manhattan’s Whittemore House for the transformation in advance of Wang’s show. “It’s more modern than that shiny blue black that you might get out of a box,” said Whittemore of the multi-tonal matte hue she whipped up for the occasion. “There are different levels within the hair, and more golden undertones under the base. It’s punk, but it looks natural. This is the new black.”

Once dyed, Guido and his team shaped shaggy layers around the cheekbones and cut a few swaths of forehead-skimming fringe. “It’s that late seventies–rock shape. Alex wanted to see different personalities on the runway—different haircuts, different lengths—and layers give personality,” he said, admiring Bochert’s face-framing strands as she walked by.

“I’m in my element,” admitted Bochert, whose own coffee shag seemed predestined for this show. “It’s reminding me of being a teenager, when I would dye my hair black—I was listening to The Cure and Nine Inch Nails, I was really into goth,” she said. “When I went for my fitting Alex said, ‘There’s no way I couldn’t have you in this one.’”

For a finishing touch of grunge, Palau practically soaked the models’ hair with Redken Diamond oil, pulling pieces in front of the face and pushing it over the ears. “The dirtier, the better,” he explained of the slick, slightly sweaty effect, which looked well suited to the designer’s club kids. “It’s the latest incarnation of the Alexander Wang girl,” he said. “Cool, urban, downtown.”  Prepare for a hair blackout south of Fourteenth street.

 

See the Alexander Wang fall 2015 collection:

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

The post Alexander Wang’s Brunette Brigade: The Designer’s Model Army Goes Goth appeared first on Vogue.

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Note to Designers of Gmail

In Gmail, this icon means “return” to prior page.

image

A few inches away, on the same page, this icon means “reply.”

image

I’m curious if anyone on the Gmail design team noticed that these two icons are not what I like to call “different.”

I wonder if the team knows I have clicked the wrong one of those two icons approximately 7,285,942 times. And that’s just this week.

Is it just me?


Scott Adams Blog

WIRED by Design – Golden Rules for Successful Collaborations, From Star Hotel Designers

Commune at WIRED by Design, 2014. In partnership with Skywalker Sound, Marin County, CA. To learn more visit: live.wired.com
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Holiday Wish List: What Shoe Designers Want This Season


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Remember Your Favorite Fleece From College? Designers Say It’s Time To Bring It Back

In his fall show, Altuzarra sent models down the runway in evening dresses and skirts styled with what we can most accurately describe as Patagonia-style fleeces. Though the styling was epically amazing, it may…




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Designers Dish: Tod’s Creative Director Alessandra Facchinetti


During a recent stop in L.A., the Milan-based mega designer (and Tom Ford’s former right hand) dished on her minimalist collection, what makes a proper Hollywood muse and the art of “managing the creative process like a schedule.”

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