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The NCAA Division I Council voted Monday to grant an extra year of eligibility to all student-athletes in spring sports whose seasons were canceled because of the coronavirus pandemic.
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Things move pretty fast in the city. If you want to navigate it and enjoy everything that urban life has to offer, you need to be quick on your feet, comfortable, and able to transition seamlessly through a range of moods and environments. Ask any savvy urbanite, and they’ll tell you that having a wardrobe that can keep up is absolutely essential. Which is why we love Kenneth Cole’s new spring collection. Versatile and dripping with style, these picks are a perfect match for modern city living.
We recently put some of KC’s Techni-Cole shoes to the test while exploring New York City with full-time electrician and renowned mens fashion blogger Eric Wertz (how’s that for a resume?). As both an expert on laid-back-yet-tasteful menswear and a Brooklyn native, he was the perfect guide for shopping the Techni-Cole line and seeking out hidden gems across the city. From cutting edge urban farming to making the next great American whiskey and more, there’s so much to discover in New York—all you need is an adventurous spirit, and some quality staple pieces to keep you comfortable and looking good. Read on for our guide to some of the city’s best kept secrets and the Techni-Cole shoes that are must-haves for any urban explorer.
Here’s one thing you probably didn’t expect to find in the five boroughs: A sprawling farm perched on a rooftop. Since launching in 2009, Gotham Greens has become a leader in sustainable urban farming thanks to its high-tech approach to growing crops. All of the company’s produce is grown inside climate-controlled greenhouses—including a 60,000-square foot rooftop space in Queens—and the company uses machine learning technology to monitor plant health, cut back on energy and water use, and produce impressively high yields.
Whether you’re exploring a greenhouse or meeting up with friends, you need footwear that’s up for anything. What you need is a pair of Kenneth Cole Mello Lace-Up Oxfords. With their leather upper and breathable textile sock lining, these versatile kicks strike just the right balance between sporty and refined. They’re also built for all-day comfort: PImpact Pods in the sole provide optimal cushioning, and a grooved outsole helps the shoe flex with your feet. That means you can go from brunch to bike to hurry-up-and-catch-that train with ease.
[$ 165; kennethcole.com]
The Streets of Bushwick
There are few Brooklyn neighborhoods more iconic than Bushwick, a renowned haven for street art and home to a constantly growing assortment of unique bars and restaurants. If you like getting off the beaten path (and avoiding crowds of tourists), this is the place to be. Murals abound, and walking the streets is a great way to experience the incredible range of art. If you’re looking for a guide, check out the guided street art tour from Brooklyn Unplugged—starting at 10:30 a.m. daily, it’s a great way to see some of the neighborhood’s best pieces. Then you can cap things off with a tasty pie from Roberta’s.
We spent some time pounding the pavement to scope out Bushwick’s hot spots, and the Kenneth Cole Liam Sneaker was the perfect companion. With a sleek leather upper that you can dress up or down, a triple-layer cushioned midsole, and a breathable microfiber interior lining, these shoes can mesh with any outfit and keep your feet comfy through a day of urban trekking.
[$ 129; kennethcole.com]
Kings County Distillery
Kentucky isn’t the only place with award-winning bourbon. You can also find top-shelf whiskey in New York: Just head directly to Kings County Distillery. It’s the oldest and largest distillery in the city, and it’s located in a historic building in the Brooklyn Navy Yard (an area that’s definitely worth checking out). Every Kings County whiskey is mashed, fermented, distilled, and aged onsite, and there are several varieties to choose from (even a delicious chocolate whiskey flavored with cacao bean husks). Pop in for a tasting at the Gatehouse room any day, or stop by for a tour of the full distillery on Wednesday through Sunday afternoons.
It might not feel like it yet, but spring and summer are around the corner, and the Liam Leather Slip-On Sneaker makes a great addition to any warm weather outfit. Put simply, there’s a lot to love about this shoe. The lightweight sole features the Techni-Cole Rebound System for top-notch shock absorption and extra support, a memory foam insole provides a soft step-in feel, and a breathable lining will keep your feet cool when the mercury rises.
[$ 129; kennethcole.com]
The Yotel makes a great home base for exploring New York for the weekend. Located on the far west side of Manhattan, it’s just a few blocks from the High Line and the brand new Hudson Yards development. It might be the most tech-friendly hotel in the city: each room comes equipped with a smart TV and fully adjustable Smart Bed, and luggage is handled by a Yobot—a “robotic luggage concierge” that will keep your bags safe in one of 150 storage bins. And after a full day of adventures, you can relax and unwind with a cocktail on the hotel’s expansive outdoor terrace, one of the largest of any hotel in the city.
You can’t bring your whole closet with you when traveling, which is why we like the Nolan Bit Strap Snake Detail Loafer—it can pull double duty as a dress shoe and a casual shoe. The rich leather upper is refined enough for formal occasions, but the snakeskin details add some extra personality and help these shoes fit in well with more casual looks. There’s no compromise on comfort, either: A flexible rubber outsole and a padded footbed will keep your feet happy no matter where your day takes you.
[$ 175; kennethcole.com]
The post The Urban Chameleon: Exploring New York With Kenneth Cole’s Spring Collection appeared first on Men's Journal.
The search for the perfect everyday sneaker is a complicated affair. In most cases, especially if we’re talking spring and summer, you want a low-top shoe that gives your ankle a bit of breathing room so your jeans, chinos, or suit pants don’t rest on top—or, god forbid, billow over. Unless you’re a whiz at mixing prints and colors, you want to err on the side of simplicity. That’s not to say you can’t play with texture and pops of color, but a great everyday shoe has versatility. Too many embellishments will raise eyebrows, especially if you’re trying to pull this off at the office, and beat-up workout shoes will impress precisely, uh, nobody. We found the verifiable unicorn of casual sneakers that transcends the boundries of streetwear: Say hello to the Court Sneaker by Everlane.
What It Is
This shoe, inspired by basketball shoes of yesteryear, is a followup to the brand’s first foray into footwear (Tread). Made in Thai Binh, Vietnam, with full-grain leather sourced from Saigon TanTec, a sustainable, eco-conscious tannery, The Court Sneaker is all about leaving a small carbon footprint and a big fashion statement. The sole comprises natural and recycled rubber that’s almost entirely free of virgin (newly made) plastic, and the lining is made from 100 percent recycled polyester. As for that carbon footprint we mentioned, Everlane partners with NativeEnergy to wholly offset the amount of total greenhouse gas emissions produced, lessening the shoe’s impact on the environment.
Why We Like It
This is a casual sneaker, but the magic is in its subtleties. There’s a leather triangle on the inner belly of the shoe, as well as the outer, that’s imagined in a slightly darker shade or contrasting pop of color—unless you go for the monochromatic white or black options. The heel patch mirrors this color play, and is reminiscent of Adidas’ Stan Smith, only instead of that signature Kelly green, you get dusty rose, cloud grey, mustard, or forest. The stitching and vertical notches running along the back of the sole all add visual intrigue sans logo or label. It’s a minimalist design but don’t call it basic. Wear ’em with a suit or with jeans and a tee; they’re a stalwart in a capsule wardrobe.
The Court Sneaker also checks all our boxes when it comes to comfort. Even though they’re leather, they don’t stifle your feet after a day of standing or walking. They fit true to size and are easy to spot clean (we also appreciate that the white colorways aren’t blindingly pristine, so you don’t have to be on high alert about dirt. Perhaps most appealing, it clocks in under $ 100.
So far, I have no critique—other than I now want to buy these in all seven colors.
The post The Best Leather Sneakers for Spring Cost Less Than $ 100 appeared first on Men's Journal.
Planning a long weekend in New York City? You can’t beat a stay at the brand-new 286-room Moxy East Village (showcased in these photos). Like the neighborhood it’s in, the Moxy has plenty of downtown style with lots of retro rock & roll flourishes. Our favorite touch? You can request a turntable—and selection of vinyl curated for any mood—delivered right to your room. Rock on! These spring looks will help inspire your next outing—whether it’s checking out that hot new hotel or just settling in to your dive bar of choice.
Get the look (above): Todd Snyder Italian Dylan Suede Jacket ($ 998, toddsnyder.com); Perry Ellis Long Sleeve Untucked Chambray Shirt (price upon request, perryellis.com); Onia Miles Waffle Knit Henley ($ 75, onia.com); Tod’s 5 Pocket Jeans ($ 545, tods.com); Fratelli Rossetti Shoes ($ 700, fratellirossetti.com).
Buck Mason Felted Chore Coat ($ 225, buckmason.com); Joseph Abboud Linen Scarf ($ 125, josephabboud.com); Brunello Cucinelli Cotton Sweater ($ 975, Brunello Cucinelli, NYC); BLDWN Modern Slim Trouser ($ 188, bldwn.com); UGG Beach Moc Slip-On ($ 125, ugg.com); TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Watch ($ 5,900, tagheuer.com); Dooney & Bourke Florentine Medium Duffle ($ 558, dooney.com).
Brunello Cucinelli Denim Jacket ($ 1,595, Brunello Cucinelli, NYC); Buck Mason Pima Curved Hem Tee ($ 35, buckmason.com); Brunello Cucinelli Trouser ($ 795, Brunello Cucinelli, NYC); Tod’s White Competition Sneakers ($ 625, tods.com); Leatherology Kessler Large Signature Duffle ($ 365, leatherology.com).
The post 2020 Spring Fashion That Looks Damn Good Everywhere appeared first on Men's Journal.
Amor Oral announced today that it has added five new flavors to its lineup, set to be released in time for spring. The new flavors include Peach Mango, Licorice, Tangerine, Pomegranate and Banana.
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For the March 2020 issue, on newsstands now, Andy Samberg honored lumberjacks of yore, with an axe and everything. But there were a couple things missing (intentionally) from his look: Samberg traded the big, bushy beard for some dialed-back scruff, and ditched the hat in order to showcase his wavy, bountiful hair. His grooming sits squarely in the middle of laidback and cleaned up.
Want to mimic it? You can wear this hair-and-whiskers combo to most offices without anyone questioning your grooming habits—or rather, they’ll question them in the good sense. (What hair products? What beard trimmer length?)
These are the questions you probably have about Samberg’s off-duty lumberjack look—and the same ones we sent to Vicky Pena, head stylist at Boardroom Salon for Men (a series of barbershop clubs across the southern U.S.). Here’s Pena’s advice for how to get the beard and hairstyle Samberg rocks so well—and how to modify it for your own hair type.
How to Get the Perfect Spring Cut à la Andy Samberg
The Kind of Hair This Style Requires
“This is a great look for someone who naturally has a medium-to-strong wave pattern in their hair [like Samberg],” says Pena. With this as the main requirement, the style is achievable for varying hair densities. Samberg and guys with thicker hair will have fewer hassles. Guys with thinner densities should use a thickening shampoo and conditioner to help build volume and body, says Pena. We love Sachajuan’s thickening wash and conditioner. “These have the ability to add fiber to the hair,” she adds. The result is lightweight fullness, especially when paired with a lightweight styler (like a texturizing hair cream targeted at wavy or curly hair—like Bumble and bumble’s. “And make sure to finish it off with a setting spray that’ll give you hold without the weight,” she says. We recommend Living Proof’s flexible-hold hairspray.
As for guys with receding hair, it gets more difficult, Pena says. “Keep a little more length on the top, to allow for a slight camouflage. Then use a product with more flexibility and movement to allow the hair to wave naturally and help disguise the recession.” A texturizing hair paste could give you the definition and medium control you need for the style, without weighing things down. Try American Crew for this.
What to Tell Your Barber
Ask your barber or stylist for a taper on the sides, and no scalp exposure, says Pena. You can modify the length to your liking length, but be sure to leave the top longer. “This maintains the wave and achieves the fullness this look requires,” she says.
You can see on Samberg that the style doesn’t blend the top and sides cleanly; it’s more abrupt in contrast. You can do this, or ask for a more natural blend—whichever you prefer.
How to Style This Look
Depending on your hair density and texture, you may need to modify the products used. (Refer to the first section above.) But in general, this style should be kept light and “touchable,” so you’ll want to stick with texturizing pastes and creams, clay pomades, or sea salt sprays. (Again, see above for links to some of our favorite products for each step.) Apply them to towel-dried hair, then let them air dry—no hot tools needed, says Pena.
A dime-sized amount of product is enough to start; emulsify it in your palms, then apply evenly to your hair, targeting the roots first. Coach it into place with your fingers, as the style is really not tamed with a comb. If you do use a comb to style it, be sure to break up the tooth marks with your fingers when you’re finished. Finish with a zap of setting hair spray if you want to ensure that the style lasts all day. (And just because it’s “touchable” doesn’t mean you should be touching it all day; that will significantly compromise its ability to hold form.)
How Often You Should Wash and Condition
In general, the rules of shampoo state that you should wash your hair 2-3 times a week. But with this style, guys with straight hair may want to lean more toward an every-other-day regimen. Condition more regularly, on the majority of in-between days, as well as following each shampoo—that’s the more imperative note here: Always follow a shampoo with a conditioner, but never combine them.
“If you have a natural wave, it’s safe to say you can use fewer products and go longer without having to shampoo and condition this look,” says Pena. “On the other hand, if your hair is straight and requires more product to achieve this look, you may need a more frequent shampoo and condition. This will rid your scalp of any buildup or residue.”
How to Get This Facial Hair
As for the beard-trimming guard to use for this scruffy style: “This is a #2 or #3 standard clipper guard, used all over,” says Pena. “Depending on the density of the facial hair and the individual growth rate, this look can be cleaned up and maintained every 2-3 weeks.” Just clean up the neck and cheek lines more frequently—twice a week should suffice.
The post Andy Samberg Has the Perfect Spring Haircut. Here’s How to Get It appeared first on Men's Journal.
Everyone owns a pair of Levi’s. From the seminal 501 style to the 541 athletic cut, these guys have denim on lockdown. But the 167-year-old brand that invented jeans has its sights set on new territory with its latest collection. Levi’s has made a play into the chino game when it recently launched the Khalid for Levi’s XX Chino Collection. Needless to say, these aren’t your typical chinos.
Levi’s started by using its encyclopedic knowledge of fit and fabric to make this latest collection one that’s equal parts stylish and comfortable. This youthful approach to chinos is backed by a campaign featuring 21-year-old “Young, Dumb, and Broke” singer Khalid. “Khalid is the perfect embodiment of the Levi’s spirit—his authenticity, his personal style, and his optimism,” says Jennifer Sey, chief marketing officer of global brands. The collection strays from the typical chino offering with new, more street-smart styles (no bootcut here) inspired by its namesake.
Here’s how the new fits work: There’s a Standard Taper fit for those who typically reach for a slim straight. If you like them even slimmer, try the Slim Taper fit. (Don’t worry about it being too tight; these pants all have stretch.) Then there’s a Straight Cropped that has a full leg (think 501) but is cropped just above the ankle. “These chinos are meant to be worn super-casual like a jean—all in a fun, youthful range of colors,” Sey says.
Some of those colors are decidedly more playful, like pink and jade blue. But they’re available in trusty chino colors like khaki, black, and olive green, too. If you prefer a more casual, worn-in feel, the collection also has garment-dyed chinos—meaning it’s dyed after it’s sewn together instead of before. It’s the finishing touches that make a garment feel lived-in right off the rack.
Perhaps the best part of this new collection is the price: Everything’s under $ 80. They’re the fun, youthful, and pretty damn affordable way to break up your everyday denim rotation. So if you’re not wearing your favorite denim, you now have an option from the makers of the jeans you already love.
The Khalid for Levi’s XX Chino Collection is available now in stores and at levi.com.
The post Levi’s Just Dropped the Must-Have Chinos for Spring appeared first on Men's Journal.
As players start reporting to spring training this week, the fans of every team have something or somebody to focus on.
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Taking a picture is the easy way of capturing a collection, said Xuan-Thu Nguyen. So she commissioned six different artists to interpret looks from her collection, producing paintings, which served as a runway backdrop for many of her tropes, such as marabou jackets, ruffled gowns and puffball dress made of clusters of chiffon flowers. Models also sported face pieces created by French makeup artist and wigmaker Muriel Nisse.
WWD Critique: The designer stuck to last season’s guns and offered up what she felt like doing, but the collection didn’t push any envelopes.
A punk attitude met a romantic look in this collection, which the designer created with both celebrities and wealthy young socialites in mind. Beautiful embroideries and encrusted safety pins peppered the dresses, which spanned from languid long designs with draped constructions to mini frocks punctuated by crystals.
WWD Critique: A favorite of global stars, including Madonna, Nicki Minaj and Rita Ora, Scognamiglio demonstrated once again to know what women want from him: elegant clothes with a sexy, bit rebellious twist.
You could imagine yourself on another planet at Yuima Nakazato, where red sunlight streaming in through the windows and Art Deco columns of the Théâtre National de Chaillot were the backdrop for his exploration of new textile technologies.
Using mainly fibers made of artificial proteins developed by biomaterials producers Spiber, the Japanese designer sent out futuristic looks that took cues from the intergalactic worlds imagined by Osamu Tezuka, a prolific manga artist best known abroad for Fifties comic Astro Boy.
Much of his work is devoted to making clothes transformable by the wearer, through the use of proprietary snap closures, but his arsenal of techniques and vision of garment creation are so interconnected that it is impossible to speak of one without the other. To wit, Nakazato used bio-smocking, a technique that allows him to digitally control the shrinkage rate of a fiber, to fit rectangular pieces of fabric “like a kimono shape but also Western tailoring, without needle and thread, or waste” to the body, he said backstage.
Through the technologies at play here, Nakazato outlines a different but no less enticing future than the one offered by Iris van Herpen.
Jean Paul Gaultier brought down the Théâtre du Chatelet on Wednesday with a swansong haute couture show that was like a kaleidoscope of his 50-year career.
For more than an hour, models, friends and muses flooded the stage in more than 230 outfits made out of recycled old collections. There were sailor tops, corsets, tuxedos and trompe-l’oeil creations — all the signatures of the man known as the “enfant terrible” of French fashion, who is retiring from the runway at the age of 67.
Known for his catwalk shows merging fashion and guest performers, Gaultier was the city’s greatest showman since Thierry Mugler, breaking down gender barriers and helping to launch some of the industry’s biggest models.
His all-star cast included Erin O’Connor, Coco Rocha, Jade Parfitt, Karlie Kloss, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Lily McMenamy, Karen Elson, Anna Cleveland, Estelle Lefébure, Noémie Lenoir, Winnie Harlow and even Farida Khelfa, his former muse and couture director.
But the biggest cheers came for Tanel Bedrossiantz, the man who has epitomized Gaultier’s brand of runway camp for decades. He did not disappoint, walking in a leather jacket with a huge rooster sprouting from one shoulder, in a section the program notes billed as “French Accent
There’s little risk of Giorgio Armani unfurling a highfalutin, obscure or tangled deep-thoughts theme for his couture show. Often he picks a color story or print theme and simply goes to town with it.
Here was an ode to ikat, the Indonesian dyeing technique, whose dense, rich patterns seemed to inspire the Italian designer, famous for greige, to flex his decorative muscles. As if those curling, slightly blurred patterns weren’t enough, he added beaded tulle overlays, embroidered inlays, swishing crystal fringes and sometimes guipure lace, too.
He opened his display with an array of fancy pants, shaped vaguely like sweats complete with gathered, ankle-hugging hems, but done in heavy silks in bright jewel tones or outsized ikat patterns. A few were tamed with taut, compact jackets in neutral tones — until the lavish treatments started creeping above the waist, too.
Armani went for bold, not always harmonious pattern and color mixes, which felt new for him. Ikat motifs rubbed up against brocades and lace with floral motifs, or were etched on their own with beadwork.
The eveningwear was similarly bold, and the best of his gowns had gleaming, solid-colored bustier or slip tops that gave way to fancy, yet gossamer skirts. Like Maria Grazia
“The clothes feel activated. You’re meant to do something in them, not just sit and look pretty,” Kristen Stewart says about Chanel’s spring-summer collection. And so she hopped on a trampoline for photographer Jean-Baptiste Mondino, who captured her mid-air for the French brand’s latest advertising campaign, slated to break Jan. 1 in European titles.
“I like her sparkling tomboy side,” enthused Mondino, who has also shot fragrance campaigns for Chanel starring Gaspard Ulliel and Vanessa Paradis.
A brand ambassador since 2015, and the face of Gabrielle Chanel perfume and Noir et Blanc de Chanel makeup, Stewart currently appears in the Benedict Andrews biopic “Seberg” about French actress Jean Seberg, which Chanel designer Virginie Viard cited as an inspiration for her spring fashion proposal, paraded on a set of Parisian rooftops.
Main message: This brand’s designer, who goes by the name Hachi, said he looked at things that had inspired him in the past in order to create his latest collection. This resulted in an offering with a vaguely futuristic look that nonetheless felt very now. He layered different fabrics to give depth and different tones of the same colors, such as an asymmetric skirt consisting of sheer black fabric over white shirting, over a more substantial black material. Pockets were extra large and always on the outside of high-waisted shorts, slim trousers, structured jackets and Windbreakers.
Some pieces were more basic: white shirts, ankle-length knit dresses in navy or gray, and simple jersey tank tops. But rather than feeling boring, they helped to keep focus on the more interesting items, without competing with them. Many looks included obi-like belts tied around the chest instead of the waist and printed with slogans such as “polyester is future” and “hometown.” The show closed with a crinkled, iridescent sweatshirt that was so oversize that it fell below the model’s knees, its sleeves bunched up around her arms.
The result: Hachi succeeded in turning out a collection that showed both creativity and commercial appeal. It
Name: Tatyana Parfionova
Main message: According to show notes, Tatyana Parfionova is the first Russian brand to participate in Tokyo Fashion Week, which is an accomplishment in and of itself. But while her collection would surely appeal to her customers back home, it left something to be desired in front of a Japanese audience.
The designer chose to show only dresses — no separates. And while this was ostensibly done in order to challenge customers to come up with their own styling concepts, it ended up feeling repetitive. The theme for the season was “black dragonfly,” and Parfionova employed motifs of clouds, lily pads, flowers and foliage. She also mixed prints and textures, which wasn’t always successful. One look that missed the mark consisted of a tiered skirt of yellow tulle layered over yellow sequins, with a strange shopping bag-style netting over the bodice and black sleeves with metallic polka dots.
The result: The choice to focus on a single garment with very little variation in silhouette resulted in the collection falling flat, despite a riot of print and texture.
After a three-year hiatus, the kimono brand founded by Yoshiki Hayashi returned to Tokyo Fashion Week as the first show of the season. Predictably, it brought plenty of drama and a higher production value than is typical for the event.
Known simply by his first name, Yoshiki gained fame as the cofounder, drummer, pianist and main songwriter for X Japan, an influential rock band. He also plays classical music as a solo artist, and has composed music for a variety of film and television projects. And while his career has been in music, he was also born into a family that managed a kimono shop. Yoshikimono is his first venture in the fashion industry, and through it he hopes to increase the popularity of kimono among young people, both in Japan and throughout the world. He admits it’s an uphill battle, but due to his level of celebrity at home and abroad — he has played sold-out shows at both Madison Square Garden and Carnegie Hall — it is possible that he’s one of the few people who could accomplish such a goal.
“The kimono industry has been suffering in terms of business, so I was wondering how could I stimulate the
Main message: A native of Tottori prefecture in Japan, Ryohei Kawanishi has lived outside of his home country since he was 18, residing previously in London and now in New York. He said that although he has never actually lived in Tokyo, growing up in the Japanese countryside he was always inspired by the Nineties Tokyo street style that he would see in magazines. Since launching his brand in 2015, he has explored a different theme each season, but for spring he wanted to draw on all of his past influences. He took pieces from his archives and tasked New York-based artist Meguru Yamaguchi to paint directly onto the clothes.
“Through this one show, I wanted to show the context I have been working with for the past eight seasons,” Kawanishi said. “The mix of colors from Meguru Yamaguchi, the street casting. To me, Japan’s original fashion culture is the story of street culture, and that’s what I wanted to show.”
The result: Roomy hoodies, baggy shorts, structured jackets and bright orange or yellow trousers were splashed in perfectly positioned, colorful swaths of paint for a streetwear collection with an artistic edge.
Main message: Kozaburo Akasaka has lived overseas for many years, and was even a finalist for the 2017 LVMH Prize, the same year he started his brand. But Japan has always been a supportive market for him, and this was one reason he decided to return to his home country to stage his first show in Tokyo.
“I wanted to come back to Tokyo, where I came from, and show who I am now,” he said. “For me, this show is like a thank you and a chance for people in Japan to experience the whole world of Kozaburo.”
His collection had a retro, rock-‘n’-roll edge to it, but also elements from workwear and Asian influences. Raw denim bell-bottoms, high-waisted black trousers, a yellow satin bomber and loose-fitting coats were just a few pieces he sent down the runway. There were also several matching tracksuits, including a bright yellow set that was reminiscent of the one Uma Thurman wore in “Kill Bill.”
The result: This was a collection that was edgy yet soft; retro yet effortlessly cool; casual yet stylish. In short, it was streetwear for those with a sense of style and fit.
Name: Diet Butcher Slim Skin
Main message: This curiously named brand has been around since the mid-Nineties, but took to Tokyo’s runways for the first time this season. Designer Hisashi Fukatami worked with artists Kosuke Kawamura and Guccimaze on prints for the collection.
“Having been an aspiring artist myself, my core curiosity lies in the coexistence of art and fashion,” Fukatami wrote in his show notes. “The relationship between art and fashion and culture and fashion being often on the table for discussion, I see those coexisting in a very amicable manner. I have created this collection with inspiration from works of those artists who always stimulate my curiosity.”
The two artists’ works were incorporated into tunics, A-line shirts, casual pants with protruding pockets, and scarves that were tied tightly at the models’ necks. Fukatami also showed silky, drapy suits in light gray or navy, and separates in traditionally feminine pastels and textiles.
The result: Fukatami’s interpretation of tailoring was soft and light, infused with artistic prints and mixed patterns for a modern men’s wear look that seamlessly mixed casual with elevated looks.
With several strong seasons under their belt and stores in Tokyo, Shanghai and Hong Kong, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii have become a fixture in the coveted Friday night slot during Tokyo Fashion Week. Their latest season was no exception, drawing a crowd that included local and international fashion insiders, among whom was Marcelo Burlon.
The designers began their show with a series of preppy white or checked short suits, with the jackets worn unbuttoned over bare chests for a look of disheveled cool. They also mixed different colors of checks — green, white and red — or printed them onto sheer fabrics.
Khaki or olive shorts, pullovers and onesies were reminiscent of Fifties Boy Scout uniforms, combined with elements from classic military styles. There were also a few traditional checked suits, but in relaxed silhouettes and with elements like sleeves that dangled from the models’ shoulders or pants with high-waist backs, secured in the front with a black strap.
Never ones to play it safe, Osumi and Yoshii also mixed in bold neon tops and shirts and jackets embellished with shiny gold beads or clear rhinestones. Tailored shirts with built-in fanny packs displayed the pair’s adeptness at combining seemingly at-odds pieces into brand
Japanese sports and streetwear brand Onitsuka Tiger staged its spring show in an indoor running stadium on an island in Tokyo Bay. The festivities began with a marching band, wheel acrobatics and dancers who flew through the air doing backflips and the like. And with the 2020 Summer Olympics being hosted by Tokyo, creative director Andrea Pompilio drew inspiration both from the city and from past editions of the Games.
“This season is a big homage to Tokyo because it’s going to be the Olympic Games of 2020,” Pompilio said. “The collection is going to be in the stores at that time, and that’s the reason why you see a lot of luggage. Because for me it’s like all the world is coming here and Tokyo has become a really big center of the world. For the Olympics but also because Tokyo at the moment is a really big center of creativity and a very inspiring city for so many people.”
The luggage Pompilio mentioned was made of slick vinyl in the Olympic colors and emblazoned with either retro or modern looking logos. Shapes ranged from cosmetic bags to Boston bags.
“Another big inspiration is about all historical and past Olympic Games from
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek made her Tokyo Fashion Week debut a year ago, and after a one-season break she was back with a collection that once again showed off both her technical skill and her knack for nailing a Western interpretation of a Japanese aesthetic. While many of Pek’s silhouettes were simple and classic — button-up shirts, a cross-front midiskirt, and relaxed-fitting suits for men — she mixed them up with unexpected details or asymmetric additions. There was a loose ruffle that ran across and trailed off of plain white or blue tie-dyed shirts; trousers with zippers that opened to create slits at the knees and thighs, and a sweatshirt dress with added “sleeves” that tied around the waist.
The result: Pek’s brand showed potential as a contemporary label that produces easy-to-wear collections with a slight twist, but she may benefit from taking a few more risks in the future.
Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Inspired by Seventies rock ‘n’ roll style, Mitsuru Okazaki sent out a compact collection of slim suits and separates with an edge. Roughly half a dozen black unisex pantsuits were accented with bold white contrasts in the shape of circles, stars, arrows, guitars, or strips of cotton tape arranged in the style of a Napoleon jacket. Black tank tops and bell bottoms printed or embroidered with guitars took a literal interpretation of the theme, while bright pink satin shirts with basketweave detailing and pants with their seams on the outside made the look feel more modern.
The result: It was a tight collection with a clear theme that nonetheless had enough variety in just over 20 looks that it kept the audience’s attention.
Main message: A former design assistant for John Galliano, Kanya Miki founded his brand in 2017 and this season marked his second showing during Tokyo Fashion Week. He still made a common rookie mistake, sending out at least twice as many looks he should have if he wanted to avoid repetition and losing his audience’s attention.
Roomy silhouettes dominated Miki’s runway. Pants were extra long, pleated, and cinched at the waist, sometimes with long cords or chains that trailed behind as the models walked. Outerwear, too, was oversize, whether it took the form of faux leather bombers so long they nearly reached the knee or denim overcoats with bunched up sleeves. Even cropped suit jackets had shoulders so wide that they hung from the models’ frames.
The result: Despite the repetition and sheer volume of the collection, it showed a clear direction and was an interesting new take on the casual-meets-tailoring trend that has become common among streetwear brands.
Name: Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets
Main message: After a nearly seven-year hiatus from Tokyo’s runways, the designers who go by the names Cabaret Aki and Jackal Kuzu were back for spring, this time with their new partner W Woods Showko. Their collection had a retro, rock ‘n’ roll-meets-hippie vibe to it, with floral caftans and printed maxi skirts shown alongside ruffled blouses, ripped jeggings, and leopard-print blazers. There was a riot of color and pattern, from multicolored zigzags to a black all-over logo print over a bright pink background. Long fringe-trimmed skirts, dresses and ponchos.
During a break from the traditional runway show, the designers sent out groups of street dancers, nontraditional models, and wrestlers wearing pieces from GCGX, the brand’s new sports line. Heavy on logos, there were sweatsuits, T-shirts, shorts and leggings in either black and white or a red, blue and yellow multicolored print.
The result: As the finale soundtrack — “Fight for Your Right” by the Beastie Boys — suggested, this was a high-energy show that certainly brought the fun. The clothes themselves were a bit more toned down than the brand’s previous fare, but will likely do well on a commercial level.
Name: Children of the Discordance
Main message: Hideaki Shikama runs what is possibly Japan’s coolest “sustainable” fashion brand, although he doesn’t promote it as such. He designs products that incorporate traditional skills of indigenous peoples in countries from Mexico to Kenya, and follows fair-trade practices in purchasing them. He also works with artist Naoto Yoshida, who remakes vintage fashions as new pieces.
Shikama’s spring offering was rich in color, texture and pattern. Velvety floral tracksuits, bandanna prints on Indian-inspired tunics and straight trousers, intricate embroidery on oversize denim jackets, and shirts fashioned from scarf prints were combined with more pedestrian camouflage pants and workers’ overalls.
The result: An eclectic mix of multicultural influences and colorful prints came together with loose, casual silhouettes for streetwear with a refined polish.
Main message: One of the more commercial brands to show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Hare is designed by a team. For spring they turned out oversize versions of classic jackets and tops, often with exaggerated, wide sleeves, overly boxy shapes, or nearly comically large pockets. Paired with wide-legged pants, some looks bordered on shapeless, but others had asymmetric details that gave them a modern edge. The team incorporated Japanese imagery into their prints and motifs, from kabuki actors to bonsai trees, as well as traditional geometric patterns. Neutral tones of black, white, beige and brown were contrasted with pops of red, fuchsia and gold.
The result: There were some beautiful fabrics and interesting imagery, but many of the pieces themselves were either very basic or so oversized that they lost their shape, and certain details such as trailing ribbons of chiffon seemed to have no rhyme or reason and didn’t do anything to elevate the pieces.
Main message: Takayuki Chino said he was inspired by a French sense of style for spring, “including the chic way the French wear scarves, Basque shirts and nautical items such as striped boatnecks.” And while these things may sound cliché, the designer succeeded at reinventing them in his own way. He fashioned silky scarves in white, red and navy stripes into buttoned-up ponchos and pleated skirts, and lengthened tipped jackets into calf-length coats, pairing them with jumpsuits and relaxed, high-waisted trousers.
For men, Chino showed a relaxed style of tailoring, including jackets without lapels over long, untucked shirts and loose-fitting pants. He mixed widths of blue and white shirting stripes and added a casual touch with drawstring trousers and sporty bomber jackets.
The result: While many of the pieces were timeless and basic, Chino made them feel modern by giving them a relaxed edge and playing with slightly oversize proportions.
Main message: A rare Kyoto-based brand in Japan’s fashion scene, Rainmaker was chosen as one of the winners of this year’s Tokyo Fashion Award. For their second showing during Tokyo Fashion Week, Kohichi Watanabe and Ryutaro Kishi showed relaxed but refined silhouettes in soft, draping fabrics. Unstructured trenches and suit jackets were paired with easy trousers, and collarless shirts topped drawstring shorts. The palette was muted neutrals and pastels, with the exception of a deep purple silk embroidered allover in a floral pattern. Cardigans and shirts were often worn unbuttoned but crossed over in the front and tucked in, for an elegantly undone look.
The result: The offering was cohesive and well executed, with a modern versatility that would be right at home in any urban environment.
Perhaps it was a natural (if theatrical) progression of the ongoing volume trend, or an indication that designers were anticipating this month’s release of “Joker.” Then again, maybe the darkly comedic side of our cultural reality spurred imaginations. Whatever the impetus, the tiers (and billows, tunics, colors and giant collars) of a clown were all over the spring runways. Looks referenced all manner, from chic Pierrot to everybody’s favorite, Ronald McDonald.
Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s brand has, for the past several seasons, been a consistent bright spot during Tokyo Fashion Week, and the latest season was no exception. After a series of collections focused on reinventing classic military pieces from around the world, the spring offering had a softer, more feminine feel to it, but was no less timeless.
Hyke is not a brand that capitalizes on sex appeal. There is very little skin shown with its clothes, even for spring. And yet they have a refined elegance that is undeniable. Ankle-length trenchcoats, maxidresses layered over fringed skirts, and pantsuits topped with pleated half skirts were turned out in neutral khaki, beige, navy and black, with a few pops of blue and pink candy colors thrown in to mix things up. The fabrics were stunning without exception, from smooth cotton and soft linen to functional tech materials.
Having collaborated with sports brands including The North Face in the past, this season saw a grouping of pieces made in conjunction with Adidas. Pleated, asymmetrical dresses, yoga-ready leggings, and abstract printed black-and-white pullovers were often paired with more tailored items, such as fringed long skirts or a basic black shirt.
Ode and Yoshihara also sent
One school of fashion says that most women want clothes with a waist. Another school prefers to let loose, literally. That school made multiple compelling arguments for spring, as designers ruminated on new ways to deliver unfettered volume, for day and evening. Alluring looks ranged from oversize T-shirts to elaborate layerings.
“The players are ready. Position,” and with that, the second Lacoste collection by Louise Trotter hit the runway, corridors around Roland-Garros’ brand-new Simonne Mathieu court, an ultra-modern installation nestled in the greenery of the Serres d’Auteuil botanical gardens. But the venue, where the brand had surprisingly never shown despite historic links with the sporting complex, wasn’t the only opposing pair offered by the tennis-centric brand this season.
For this iteration, the incumbent designer explored what she called the brand’s “aristocratic yet quite street” identity. “I wanted to try and address the nostalgia people feel toward Lacoste, with a contemporary lens,” she said backstage. Sporty pieces were cut from butter-soft leathers or silks. On others, Trotter demonstrated her deft tailoring hand, cutting a double-breasted suit in soft pink. Shown in succession on a female and then male models, it reinforced the idea that very little, if any, of the lineup was gender-specific — not even floor-skimming polo shirts and skirts that nodded to the Japanese hakama in their pleating and proportions.
To ground her work in the here-and-now, she tweaked proportions on house signatures. Mercerised or heavier yarns were used to produce oversize piqué. Widened cuffs and ribbing details were given pride of
Equipment continued to expand its offering for spring, with utilitarian and archival details and a watercolor palette coming together in a lineup inspired by Marrakech. There was an expanded range of dresses, some directly derived from the brand’s shirting heritage, others with more feminine wrap shapes and done in animal or floral prints.
Elevated basics presented more masculine lines, as on a cropped military shirtdress in beige or cilantro leather shorts and matching army sweater, which rubbed shoulders with more statement pieces, like a viscose twill jumpsuit in fuchsia and red.
Closing Paris Fashion Week can be a double-edged sword. In theory, the Louis Vuitton show is the star-studded, spectacular apotheosis to a month of runway shows in four capitals. In practice, weary fashion editors are anxiously eyeing the clock to gauge if they will make their plane or train back home.
It didn’t help that the Vuitton show this season started an hour later than usual, just after the sun set on the plastic tent erected in the courtyard of the Louvre. The brand wanted to maximize the impact of the music video that played on a giant screen that stretched the entire width of the catwalk.
Looming over the audience was transgender singer Sophie Xeon, known simply as Sophie, performing an extended version of her 2017 track “It’s Okay to Cry.” Somewhat surreally, models emerged from a door set in the middle of the performer’s chest.
Nicolas Ghesquière has been flirting with gender fluidity for several seasons, having cast androgynous models including Krow Kian in his spring show a year ago, and subsequently tapped transgender actress Indya Moore to star in his pre-fall look book and act as Instagram “host” for Vuitton’s fall show.
And it was an undercurrent this season at the
For Australian designer Toni Maticevski, designing around a theme is no longer working out. “It’s really weird. I’ve stopped trying to figure it out,” he said ruefully during a showroom appointment. What he thought about instead: how good a spring morning feels — clear skies, bright light and the scent of dew-saturated earth.
He embodied the latter as touches of sheen or darker tones; the bright light in flattering pinky-beiges, and the breeze in fabrics meant to obscure without hiding the skin. Given his proclivity for architectural draping, the result could have easily felt too formal. Here, his sculptural approach was reined in by softer fabrics and felt more relatable, especially with new daywear options.
Among the standouts: A light gray striped dress looked blowsy, while soft tuffs dotting white gauze fabric evoked sun-dappled surfaces. A jersey T-shirt gave an editor-off-duty look to a pencil skirt. The soft hand of a silk blend made a top and matching trousers skew more relaxed but still smart.
The lighter materials of the collection made tailored pieces stand out. A double-breasted blazer felt at once familiar and fresh, while a check overcoat toed the line between sporty and statement thanks to its kimono-inspired proportions. “My idea of
For their second season at storied Rome house Capucci, Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi played with optical effects, using iridescent fabrics that change color in the light and working them into designs that can be worn in different ways to create volume.
Mikado silks were taken from Capucci’s archives, recycled into modernized cocktail separates in color-blocked brights. A cropped waistcoat in lilac silk was adorned with glow-in-the-dark beads, intended to evoke a rosary, and worn with high-waisted white pants.
A handmade black devoré gown and plissé silk dresses — orange or red, burgundy or green, depending on the light — in one-shouldered or bell-sleeved iterations nodded to the house’s couture heritage, a link the designers are keen to cultivate as they seek to modernize the label without neglecting its rich history.
Wide-brimmed “visiere” hats, adorned with beaded fringing or giant bows, added to the updated vintage feel of the collection.
“It’s a little bit ‘workwear meets Bubblegum Barbie,’” said Martin Grant, by way of introducing his spring collection. That’s some statement, coming from a designer famous for dressing style icons like Cate Blanchett and Meghan Markle.
Grant was referring specifically to a blue belted shirtdress with safari pockets that he’d paired with pink heels, but there were plenty of other playful options in his spring collection: a sexy pink halterneck minidress; cross-back bra tops, and a navy linen zip-front, hourglass bustier dress.
They tipped his trademark masculine-feminine dynamic into flirtier territory. Even the suits had a softer edge this season, courtesy of a slightly Eighties-feeling curved, cropped pant shape. Grant emphasized the waist by belting everything from oversize shirts to a flowing one-shouldered pink taffeta evening gown.
He also used the taffeta for a puff-sleeved shirt, noting that the fabric was made by a French company that historically supplied haute couture houses. “It’s one of the first pinks that I used when I moved to Paris, and it’s called ‘Paris.’ I like also that I can go back to a house that I used 15 years ago and have that exact color,” he mused.
Bubblegum Barbie just got a couture makeover.
Mary Katrtantzou set the bar high for her spring 2020 show — a little too high, some would say.
Just like she managed to make the impossible possible when it came to securing her dream show venue – the historic Temple of Poseidon in Athens – the Greek-born designer delivered a standout couture collection that was bursting with emotion, ideas and elevated construction techniques.
It was admirable that she was able to execute everything at such scale, on a tight budget and with a small team at her north London atelier. Her talent, conviction – and many a sleepless night – certainly paid off.
The collection consisted of 30 looks, each exploring a different couture technique and conceptualizing a philosophical idea birthed in Greece at the same time as the temple of Poseidon was built, in 440 B.C.
The first model – in a sequinned and fringed column gown with a quote from Socrates embroidered on it – made her way down the runway against the ancient ruins, sending a frisson through the crowd. The dim lighting and eerie music added to the electricity in the space.
What followed was an explosion of creativity, with Katrantzou paying homage to her country’s history – and writing a new
Mary Katrtantzou set the bar high for her spring 2020 show — a little too high, some would say.
Just like she managed to make the impossible possible when it came to securing her dream show venue – the historic Temple of Poseidon in Athens – the Greek-born designer delivered a standout couture collection that was bursting with emotion, ideas and elevated construction techniques.
It was admirable that she was able to execute everything at such scale, on a tight budget and with a small team at her north London atelier. Her talent, conviction – and many a sleepless night – certainly paid off.
The collection consisted of 30 looks, each exploring a different couture technique and conceptualizing a philosophical idea birthed in Greece at the same time as the temple of Poseidon was built, in 440 B.C.
The first model – in a sequinned and fringed column gown with a quote from Socrates embroidered on it – made her way down the runway against the ancient ruins, sending a frisson through the crowd. The dim lighting and eerie music added to the electricity in the space.
What followed was an explosion of creativity, with Katrantzou paying homage to her country’s history – and writing a new
For her first presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Honayda Serafi drew inspiration from her childhood memories of seeing Bedouin women in the countryside in her native Saudi Arabia.
Their traditional outfits inspired the seashell-embroidered belt she layered over a silky white cape-sleeved top, and the geometric patterns on a hooded dress worn over matching pants. The layered silhouettes are a pragmatic choice for Bedouin women out in the elements, but Serafi gave them a seductive allure.
A black bustier jumpsuit was overlaid with a sheer tunic with graphic silver sequin embroideries, while dramatic floor-length capes added pizzazz to buttoned-up long-sleeve shirts and pants. The designer titled the collection “Evolution,” saying it was a vision of how women could evolve from one generation to the next.
Serafi has done her bit to challenge social attitudes in Saudi Arabia by introducing colored and embroidered abayas in previous collections. This time, she showed variations on the traditional caftan, such as a white column dress with a pleated half cape. “This for me is the new generation of caftans: dress caftans,” she explained.
The collection was heavy on the kind of red-carpet fare that has won over celebrities including Priyanka Chopra, Lupita Nyong’o and Lindsey Vonn. Standouts included
Peggy Gou doesn’t need to look far for inspiration: her Kirin line is basically condensed from the kind of things she likes to wear. For her sophomore collection, the South Korean-born techno DJ and producer whipped up outfits for everything from hitting the festival circuit to traveling between gigs.
Her signature look is matching tops and pants, ranging from color-blocked tracksuits and denim pairings, to satiny logo-printed pajamas. Among the patterns this season is a pixelated image of dancers — a nod to the Saatchi Gallery’s recent “Sweet Harmony: Rave Today” exhibition — and a motif of Korean traditional masks.
Gou said the idea came from the artwork for her track “Starry Night,” an illustration that shows her hiding behind a laughing mask. “Everything with social media now is about who has a better life, who’s happier, and my cover had the meaning that everything is not as it appears,” she said. “I’m not always a super happy person.”
The Berlin-based DJ has been working with her partners at New Guards Group, the Milan-based brand platform that was recently sold to Farfetch, to refine her assortment. Based on the feedback from her first season, she’s added more feminine shirts and snugger denim fits.
This wasn’t your typical, sparkling beach inspiration. Tuomas Merikoski was thinking more of danger, lust and excitement, he said — his summer feeling has something more of a road-trip vibe. To start with, there was a heavy dose of white — lightweight white cotton shirts, some with sailor blouse collars, and a trenchcoat with wide lapels. Merikoski had also rigged up sails in the showroom — he’s making handbags out of sails, and a stiff, crinkly prototype sat near the window, with round handles. Next to the bags were clogs — a collaboration with a traditional Finnish make called Talla, some with fat bows. But topping accessories was the stingray hat. Imagine a bucket hat with an extended brim, that split and grew stingray tails. It added flair but he meant it to be worn casually — like a real sailor bob that will look good even after it’s bleached by the sun.
Then there was color — simple cotton T-shirts carried an extra sash of lightweight material with the house’s “bleeding dots” print, drape it in front, drape it in back, or toss it in the washing machine — the silky fabric was actually a recycled polyester.
And now for the statement
For its spring show, A.P.C. splashed out on an outdoor sound system, drawing guests into a Left Bank courtyard decorated with flag garlands, a beverage cart and tents displaying merchandise — future products from three collaborations in the pipeline: JJJJound in November, Carhartt WIP in January and René Tadeo Holguin in March.
“I realise that the older I grow, the less subtle I want to be,” Jean Touitou told the crowd, waving a finger at the setup. DJ Prince, a teenager from the U.S. — found on Instagram — stood ready to spin Eighties tunes to spur the models down the runway.
The lineup was A.P.C. through and through — a sparse selection of prints with checks or flowers, stripes on occasion; more choice in the jeans department, offered at times with matching shirts or in the shape of a sleek boiler suit. Dresses, too, were sprinkled into the mix, trim, attractive and deceptively simple.
Sensible, all of it, with just the right register of chic to keep things from getting too ho-hum.
Moving with the times — the streets will soon be going all dressy — the bomber coat moved to preppy territory this season, tan with a collar, and flaps on the pockets; a
If there’s one thing that’s courted controversy on the runways in Paris, it’s denim, from the fraying denim shorts as base layer for the circa 2020 “le smoking” at YSL, to Seventies Landlubber throwback jeans at Celine, to ripped and shredded Nineties iterations at Givenchy, reworked from actual upcycled vintage pieces in a nod to sustainability, bravo Clare Waight Keller!
It’s not that designer denim is a new phenomenon, far from it. But somehow, in this era of class and climate warfare, it’s been a lightning rod.
But the beauty of denim is that it can be the uniform of the aristocrat and the protester. Designer denim costs more simply because it can, because customers are willing to pay for context and emotions and values. And at Givenchy, Keller has created the whole package, carving out a feminist fashion niche that is honest and questioning (dressing a duchess for her big day didn’t hurt, either).
Titled “NY Paris 1993,” Waight Keller’s latest collection was a look back at a particular moment in time in the Nineties when she started working in fashion at Calvin Klein and was traveling between New York and Paris. She was reminiscing about the contrast of the two fashion
Lest anyone worry that Lutz Huelle, the label, would languish as Huelle, the designer, gets swept up in his new mission at Delpozo, here came a message, striding down the runway: fear not.
A bit saucy and rather fashion-savvy — with an alternative Eighties vibe — the Lutz woman threw off her jeans last season and, swapping them for long skirts with a puff and shiny pencil trousers, declared it was time to dress properly. And enjoy it.
For spring, she carried on in this manner, slipping on an evening gown, in a flowy, black and metallic jacquard splashed with a generously proportioned floral pattern.
“In a way it’s kind of a French, flirty way of dressing — but it’s still what I like,” said Huelle.
He turned his focus on transparency, using an ultralight black mesh, often with polkadots, layering it over short, puffy sleeves, making them larger, or longer, and in one case, adding a chic touch to a light blue cotton shirtdress. Other times the layering felt a bit haphazard — those polka-dotted legs shooting out from under a thick trenchcoat were surprising in a slightly jarring sense — likely his intention.
Known for his obsession with bombers and jean jackets — which he
For someone from the field of haute couture, Vauthier is surprisingly democratic, finding ways to literally get the look for less. “While we’re developing fabrics and embellishments for couture, we’re already considering how to spin them off into ready-to-wear, to get the same aspect,” he said during an appointment.
The fall couture’s subject, namely the imagery and crafts that made him go into design, worked overtime in this collection, giving the couturier ample opportunity to play with Parisian tropes. June’s silk faille became prints on silks and jerseys; dresses made of acres of silk mousseline were recast in charmeuse to create volumes and reduce yardage; silk linings get blended with cotton, and hand-crafted flowers created by feather specialists Maison Lemarié return as machine-made fabric blooms. “We ask our suppliers to develop a version with price targets that match rtw targets,” he explained.
So the gold-buttoned blazers loved by French First Lady Brigitte Macron felt familiar, as did brushstroke prints cut into dresses and blouses. His less obviously sexy but intensely handsome feminine suits were made available in more variations, while a statement trench returned as a breezy, lightweight staple. Footwear was available in a range of heel heights and treatments so vast
It felt like Isabel Marant wanted to stretch the summer just one more evening as guests waiting for her show in the Palais Royal gardens were treated to music and mojitos.
“I was listening to baile funk, contemporary electronic Brazilian music, and it gave me ideas of Brazil, of beaches. Colors, sexiness. Craft and architects that I love like Oscar Niemeyer and Roberto Burle Marx,” she said backstage. The season certainly read like a day in that setting, going from the pinks and oranges of a sunrise, to the sun-bleached and vivid hues of midday, right through to nighttime’s somber shades.
Warm weather certainly lends itself to the French designer’s particular brand of skin-baring yet always classy sexiness. There were plenty of things to call out in her lineup such as abbreviated denim cutoffs, mini dresses and short skirts galore but also crochet knits and flowy fabrics made to skim toned physiques. Marant men — who now have their first stand-alone boutique — will have their pick of flower print shirts, peasant blouses and matching denim.
Whatever far-flung destination flavors the season, Marant’s work can almost be viewed as a continuum that never strays far from her forte: the free-spirited bohemian French girl.
“A summer rain,” Christophe Lemaire said after a show that stayed thankfully dry in the open courtyard of the École Duperré, despite worrisome black clouds and a distribution of umbrellas.
“We liked this idea of having fabrics with a wet effect,” added partner Sarah-Linh Tran. “We wanted to work around quite defined silhouettes and wet blacks.” This translated into an opening group of dark silhouettes, the kind of elongated looks Lemaire is known for, cut from chintz, coated cottons in various weights and occasional details in glossy wooden pearls — similar to those on orthopedic seat covers used by Parisian taxi drivers.
The duo did away with any embellishment, hewing close to the body by taking cues from the sparse elegance of judo outfits. Those informed the curved legs and padded detailing, notably self-tie belts that cinched jackets and coats, continuing down around the ankle on sandals with puffy straps.
The monochromatic silhouettes looked dipped in single color baths, moving onto a palette of almost neutrals of off-white, blush pinks, caramels and chocolate with the odd sage green — all tones that flatter the skin. “We like clothes to be a kind of new nudity,” Tran said. “This is a kind of makeup
The new YSL female power suit is shorts. That according to creative director Anthony Vaccarello, who put the spotlight — literally — on what’s emerging as one of spring’s biggest trends, the shorts suit.
While it’s tough to imagine U.S. House Speaker Nancy Pelosi ditching her royal blue skirt suit for a shorts suit to announce formal impeachment hearings against President Donald Trump, you never know — things are heating up in Washington.
Meanwhile in Paris, the rain is proving to be quite the runway set piece, from the dystopian mist at Marine Serre, to the downpour at Saint Laurent that let up just in time for the spotlights to turn skyward, all 394 of them, for another one of Vaccarello’s light spectaculars to rival the Eiffel Tower’s twinkling behind it. (He really takes the whole City of Light thing seriously.)
On the runway, it all started with the legs. The spotlights’ skinny beams of light following models’ strides in knee-grazing boots made for the ultimate power moves. Opening looks were long, short and shorter shorts — HotPants short in some cases — in blue denim or black, worn with a ruffled navy blue shirt left unbuttoned to the navel; a banker’s gold
There’s a new American in Paris.
New York designer Telfar Clemens kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a multimedia happening that was, appropriately enough, a musing on migration. Not one to do a straight runway show, he presented his coed collection at La Cigale concert hall with a film, a live sonic score by Afro-Parisian DJ Crystallmess, a musical performance by Lancey Foux, and the surprise reveal of a Converse collab (including uber-cool sneaker sandals for men and women) that should help catapult the brand to an even wider audience.
Projected behind models wearing the same outfits that were shown on-screen, the film “The World Isn’t Everything” was the work of Clemens’ buzzy group of creative collaborators, including “Slave Play” playwright Jeremy O. Harris, artists Petra Collins and Juliana Huxtable. Speaking to the idea of migration, borders and belonging, the work featured black men floating on rafts just out of reach of the New York skyline, and “Moonlight” actor Ashton Sanders being interrogated at an airport security checkpoint, among other scenes, all with characters wearing Telfar logo jewelry, T-shirts and bags.
On the runway, the collection set out to rewrite the narrative of American sportswear. Techniques of deconstruction, reconstruction and patchwork were used
Monte Carlo, late Seventies. Caroline and Stephanie Grimaldi are two beautiful, rich, sometimes scandalous princesses living their best life surfing the international jet set.
These two icons, very different in their style and attitude, were the muses who inspired Lorenzo Serafini’s spring collection. Their looks and their images — Caroline more feminine and polished, Stephanie more tomboy and audacious — were reflected in the duality that Serafini injected into the lineup.
Bold volumes stole the spotlight. Big shoulders gave an Eighties vibe to denim and striped bouclé jackets cinched at the waist with jeweled belts. In keeping with the glamorous vibe, denim was also used to create tweed ruffled corsets layered over white T-shirts, while prom-inspired dresses with puffy details came in florals, as well as solids, such as vibrant red.
The mood got more grown-up when Serafini played with tailoring, sending out a white tuxedo with a big jacket with boxy, strong shoulders and another more fluid style fully embroidered with iridescent sequins. The young and innocent attitude of frilled mini frocks contrasted with the more nocturnal, sharp look of black leather outfits, punctuated by crystals, which were inspired by a picture of Caroline shot by Helmut Newton.
The collection, which also unveiled
Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi celebrated the joyful, lively spirit of summer with their latest collection, displayed at the brand’s showroom, with its frescoes on the ceiling,
Taking inspiration from Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1960 movie “The Adventure,” filmed on Sicily’s Aeolian Islands, the designers showed uncomplicated, flared cotton dresses and full skirts matched with shirts, all worked in pure white or splashed with abstract prints resembling watery ink stains.
A mannish vibe was felt in suits, with jackets replaced by belted vests and classic sartorial fabrics switched with lightweight shirting textiles.
Discreet elegance prevailed in tunics layered over coordinated culottes, as well as in black and white tops with graphic necklines and built-in belts.
Talk about a J.Lo jaw-drop.
The diva herself closed out the Versace show Friday night, reprising what may have been the first viral fashion moment in history with an IRL runway walk for the ages.
It was the second time in the spotlight for the jungle print gown, which became an instant icon when Jennifer Lopez wore it to the Grammy Awards in 2000. Not only was the plunge-front dress depth-defying (How did it stay on then — or now —on the age-defying actress?), it changed history, when news traveled from Hollywood red carpet to Internet superhighway.
“I’m kind of proud to have inspired Google,” said Donatella Versace with her trademark humility during a pre-show preview.
Google was still in its infancy, just two years old, when fans burned up cords and cables searching for “Jennifer Lopez’s green dress.” When their queries weren’t turning up what they really wanted — a picture! — the tech giant realized it needed a new visual search engine, and developed Google Image. “For the first time, fashion inspired technology,” said the designer, noting it was also a validating moment for her personally, when she realized the dress had stopped the world. (She took the design helm at Versace
Few designer arrivals are instantly momentous. Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee is finding that out.
Lee’s appointment at Bottega came with high expectations buoyed by his Phoebe-centric résumé; he was a longtime assistant to Phoebe Philo, now on industry hiatus (because no one wants to think she’s exited fashion for good). Insider-celebrated, he was also green in the ways of fronting a major brand, and in connecting to women on the emotional level that made Philo more cult goddess that mere fashion star.
Would Lee command a slice of the Phoebe-loving population longing for courtship? After his second runway on Thursday, the answer remains a giant question mark. One point is very clear: Lee has a long way to go, both in clarifying his vision and refining his skills. After the show, Lee said this collection was about “solidifying icons…the things we’ve become known for.”
But what are the Bottega icons? There’s a very specific, very famous handbag treatment that Lee has translated to clothes and shoes. And he listed, “the pouch bag, the kind of ease, reality of dressing.” But are those identifiable codes? In fact, does Bottega really have a ready-to-wear iconography? If yes, what is it, and how does he advance
Balance is a goal that most everyone aspires to reach in life. Probably one of the most difficult to attain, considering the chaotic lifestyle of today. But a fashion show, if considered as a representation of tiny fragments of life, gives us that peaceful feel that, for a handful of minutes, everything is in its own place and the balance is found. This happened on Wednesday night at Milan’s Brera Academy where Jil Sander unveiled a beautiful collection, which seemed to center on the concept of balance.
Creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier succeeded in finding harmony among contrasting forces, giving shape to a lineup, which felt personal, distinctive, inventive.
The minimal rigor of sartorial suits, injected with an almost severe, mannish attitude, was counterbalanced by the liquid fluidity of draped dresses with high-neck collars and long sleeves. The conceptual vibe of most intricate constructions and deconstructions, as well as the paper-like feel of textured, more rigid fabrics, were juxtaposed to the desirable, essential approachability of a pleated tunic top with a crisscross detail on the back layered over a matching skirt in a different white tone and the liquid fluidity of a black and blue silk V-neck frock.
Patchwork in a chic
In a small alleyway not far from the newly opened Standard hotel near King’s Cross station, Wright Le Chapelain debuted its first on-calendar collection in a refreshing way. Models were doing community work, planting plants and cleaning garbage off the street, instead of standing still against the wall.
Imogen Wright and Vincent Le Chapelain, the duo behind of brand, said this was their way of participating in the circular economy. Showing in a public venue that engages with residents and commuters not only generates zero waste but gives back to society.
The collection worn by these “social workers” is all made in London in collaboration with local tailors and seamstresses. Their thoughtful play on men’s wardrobe classics included a men’s dress shirt reinterpreted as a bias-cut wrap dress, while a check jacket was deconstructed into a panel skirt.
The two met while studying MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins, and decided to launch a brand together in 2017. It’s still early days, but as more young brands go back to tailoring and aim to dress members of the business world, Wright Le Chapelain might soon start a style evolution with the likes of Eftychia and Peter Do.
Spring Break is a time when young women get away from home and school so they can fuck anyone they want! We have raw footage of intense Spring Break hookups!
Spring Break is a time when young women get away from home and school so they can fuck anyone they want! We have raw footage of intense Spring Break hookups!
Stars: Megan Diamond
Scene Number: 1
Studio Name: Pink Visual
Lines snaked around the street outside East London’s York Hall, where the spring 2020 Richard Quinn show was set to take place, with guests waiting more than 40 minutes post the scheduled start time to be let in.
“It better be worth it” was the general consensus.
It most definitely was.
The feeling of fantasy and the grandiose were apparent from the moment you set foot in the old sport’s hall, transformed with a big crystal chandelier, blush pink carpet and arrays of flowers, next to which the Philharmonia orchestra was set up to play live.
Richard Quinn’s intention for this event was straight-forward: to put on a real show and encourage his guests to dream during these challenging times. There was no specific muse or philosophical thought process, just fashion for the sake of fashion, in its purest, most artistic form.
He telegraphed his message by dialing up the volume and the glamour, in an even bolder way than previous seasons. He super-sized the bow embellishments or the sleeves on his much-loved puff-sleeve minis; added extra layers of tulle under bold leopard print balloon dresses for an added dose of drama; mixed florals with feathers and piled up the crystals on the trims of
In the midst of back-to-back shows, London-based Duro Olowu offered a select few showgoers and friends of his brand, including artists, historians and curators, the opportunity to have a break and view a collection at a very different type of pace.
Taking over a Mayfair town house that resembled a giant cabinet of curiosities, Olowu sat in the living room alongside his guests talking through each garment, as two models took turns showcasing the looks in his spring 2020 collection.
Françoise Gilot — an artist, the former wife of Picasso and “the only one who managed to leave him” — was Olowu’s main point of reference, for the effortless way she carried herself.
He married references to Gilot’s elegant style with the energy of Eighties’ dance-hall music to create a more current look of his own that was luxurious and laid-back.
“I think that if I found myself in Kingston in the Eighties with Françoise Gilot, we’d have a great time,” said Olowu. “She’d make elaborate clothes seem practical and that’s what we tried to achieve here.”
He worked some of the colors and patterns of Gilot’s sketches, drawn during trips to Venice, India and Senegal — into patchwork coats that juxtaposed painterly and non-painterly
It’s only been a year-and-a-half since Greek designer Eftychia Karamolegkou launched her brand, yet she already has managed to impress well-known tastemakers. Phoebe Philo snatched multiple looks from the brand within days after the merchandise hit the store. Gaia Repossi also places personal orders with her. With her approval, Eftychia seems to be a new guiding star for the Philophile, the nickname for those who are loyal to Philo’s vision at Celine.
Karamolegkou said she pretty much got tailoring figured out by herself one project after another through her bachelor and master of arts courses at Central Saint Martins. Her collection for spring 2020 is her take on Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper.” Instead of 12 men and one woman, however, there were 12 women and one man at the presentation. “The guy is Judas,” said the designer.
As a businesswear brand, Eftychia offers fine tailoring pieces and outerwear as well as blouses and skirts for a woman in power at a reasonable price point compared to, say, The Row or Bottega Veneta. It’s refreshing to see a brand that actually makes well-designed and wearable clothing coming from London once in a while.
The British fashion industry might be pondering big issues this season, including the mammoth 870-million-pound potential cost of Brexit, but the 16Arlington design duo Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati offered a much-needed antidote to the gloom with a presentation-cum-dance-party that began London Fashion Week on a high note.
Drawing on their Italian roots, Capaldo and Cavenati looked to one of their all-time favorite muses, pop singer Raffaella Carrà. Channeling her high-octane glamour, they transformed a dark, central London basement into a joyful scene that was reminiscent of Italy in the Sixties: Models sporting sharp bobs and playful head scarves danced their way through the show like no one was watching.
The clothes telegraphed the same message of pure fun, with beaded jumpsuits, feather gowns galore, as well as lamé suits and cocooned minidresses featuring a Sixties-inspired swirl print.
“It was a nice time to bring our heritage in. Raffaella Carrà is the Italian gift that just keeps on giving; she is this exuberant, insanely talented performer, singer, dancer and we just wanted to inject that in our clothes,” said Capaldo. “Her music is all about feel-good and that’s aligned with 16Arlington, we want to be that beam of light in these dark times.”
“For me, the story is these beautiful acid pastels, a new modern femininity and reinventing favorite classics from safari to a shirtdress,” Andrea Lieberman said of her upbeat spring line rooted in reality.
Upon first glance, the collection appeared colorful and charming, easy and romantic, inclusive of wardrobe enhancers in clean and modern silhouettes. She built up puff sleeves and other sleeve treatments on sweet tops and dresses meant to empower. “There’s something about having some volume in the sleeve. It’s about redefining proportions,” she added. A leather ruched top and flirty skirt set was a great example of how she brought a modern edge to feminine shapes.
Leaning on a thread of playfulness, acidic pastel colors topped tailoring and essential knit tops, while the print of the season was a hand-painted abstract butterfly rendered in two colorways. She riffed on men’s wear stripes in offbeat ways, and injected ease into a safari dress and skirt with soft flounces. Knits, too, were lightweight and fun, and included a beautiful pink pointelle dress and cream crochet set. “For me it’s about taking fabrics that we love, and putting more textural detail onto it. We’re definitely looking for that versatile, effortless moment for our
In his show notes and during a preview on Wednesday night, Marc Jacobs acknowledged the Sept. 11 anniversary. For anyone who worked in this industry 18 years ago in a show-related capacity, the two are inextricably linked. “Where were you when you heard the news?” The answer is at or en route to a show; working at a show; casting a show, doing something show. (I was traveling down Fifth Avenue to Bryant Park in a taxi and saw the Towers in flames in front of me.) Jacobs heard the news in a phone call from a reporter — myself. He’d slept in since the night before, he’d thrown a huge postshow party on Pier 54 with views of the Towers. In the moment, carefree reverie. In the aftermath — bacchanal before carnage — a stark reminder of how quickly life can change, and of how little control we have of our destinies.
Heavy material in the lead-up to a fashion show (or in a piece about a fashion show), but given the timing of Jacobs’ show and party 18 years ago, it would have been odd for him not to reminisce. He lost a friend in the attacks, David Rivers.
Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim went bucolic for spring.
Their inspiration — a farmer’s market — brought a lively sense of serenity into their lineup, which in keeping with the brand’s signature aesthetic played with deconstructions and twisted cuts.
Charming botanical patterns were splashed on the panels of jeans and chinos; printed on silk shirts, and mixed and matched with striped fabrics with a rustic feel for asymmetric dresses.
Perfectly combining a dose of edgy design with a sense of comfort and effortless coolness, the collection also featured gardener-apron-inspired skirts and cutout sweatshirts featuring prints developed in collaboration with Renee’s Garden, a supplier of heirloom and certified organic seeds, international hybrids and open-pollinated varieties.
Tailoring got a fresh makeover with applied utility pockets and intentionally unfinished elements, while jersey evening dresses looked equally chic and comfortable.
Injected with an intriguing sense of escapism, the Monse collection will bring the joy of the countryside to the hippest streets of the world next spring.
“Do you like our ‘yellow brick rose?!’” Lela Rose excitedly giggled just before her spring show. The designer was referring to the runway of yellow rose petals, surrounded by white tablecloth-clad little round tables topped with various baked goods. “Café Lela,” as she called it, was set against the backdrop of New York’s cityscape and waterfront on Pier 64.
The New York City skyline — or rather vintage postcards of the island — served as Rose’s jumping-off point for the collection. The show opened with literal takes — the cityscape printed on a pleated cotton cape-back dress or Central Park splashed across a belted cotton pale-pink number — and ended more abstract, with a layered pale pink over gold tulle gown that emulated the golden hour of sunset.
Roses came big and small, embroidered or printed onto signature flirty cotton voile — the designer’s favorite fabric of the season — on dresses and sets with overcoats. A lightweight tiered dress with tricolored blooms and curled ruffles made for a strong look. Outside of florals, a navy and white crochet-knit dress with carwash hem felt fresh, while a blue point d’espirit blouson gown conveyed effortless romance and the “celebration of the city in
“It’s about beauty. I have never been edgy and cool. I don’t know how to do it. I want to do my best version of beauty,” said Jason Wu backstage at his spring show, held at Pier 17 in a postindustrial venue with large windows offering a spectacular view of the Brooklyn Bridge.
Is there anything wrong with wanting to create beautiful clothes? Not at all. Especially when a designer like Wu succeeds in interpreting what is classic, sophisticated and feminine with a fresh, lively touch.
This season, Wu wanted to give a different twist to the idea of beauty he normally conveys with his clothes, which usually have a polished, “perfect” look. So he played with hand-washed fabrics, textures, sun-bleached effects, raw cut edges and intentionally unfinished details to give his elegant creations a lived-in, poetic and intriguing vibe.
The mood of slightly decadent romanticism was inspired by the images of fragile, dried flowers of Wu’s friend, photographer Maxime Poiblanc.
His nocturnal-looking flowers were printed on a washed-silk pencil skirt worn with a coordinated bralette and a lightweight trenchcoat, as well as with an exquisitely draped dress punctuated by tiny crystal embroideries.
Leather was also treated to obtain an imperfect, wrinkled
Hanako Maeda’s designs often have a personal connotation, and when conceptualizing her spring outing, she choose the place in Japan her parents are from — Yokohama — a seaside city and one of the first places in the country to open to the west, as inspiration. “It’s similar to Cape Cod in the U.S.,” she said of Yokohama. It’s a place where she spent a lot of time as a child, and judging from her collection, a place that clearly left an imprint on her.
Maeda is a conceptual designer who takes a theme and meditates on it, ushering in new silhouettes and ideas, all variations on her laser-focused ideas. For spring, she expanded on the idea of nautical through her signature East meets West lens.
Several times throughout the show, a piece was shown more than once — for example, a navy chunky knit with a white stripe on the sleeve and flap collar that had a detachable shoulder detail. Once it was shown with the sleeves buttoned up, and then later on in a sandy colorway with the sleeves unbuttoned, forming a new shape. The variations permutated the silhouette, giving her customer a convertibility, another theme she often riffs on.
Once again fashion and music collided at the energetic Vfiles collective show, which took place on Thursday night at Brooklyn’s Barclays Center.
Performances by Rico Nasty, Erika Jayne and Brooke Candy, as well as YG, animated the event, which was organized in collaboration with London-based marketplace app Depop and which highlighted the talent of the four emerging designers selected from among an international group who submitted their applications this past summer.
The sculptures of artist Anna Uddenberg featuring women who either collapse on their suitcases or writhe out of them served as the starting point for Chinese designer Di Du, who recently graduated from the Royal College of Fine Arts Antwerp. A combination of dreamy, whimsical colors such as lilac and pink mixed with deconstructed lines and silhouettes sat at the core of her collection, which felt like the wardrobe of a space anime’s heroine. Standout pieces included teddy bear cowboy pants matched with an armor-like cutout top, a padded off-the-shoulder bodysuit with exaggerated sleeves, as well as a Seventies net mini frock featuring the halter neck made of a plastic bag handle.
Wesley Harriott’s designer Ricky Harriott, who is based in London, wanted to portray an empowered femininity with his well-executed lineup.
Pierpaolo Piccioli captured the most immediate and lively spirit of a never-ending summer with his charming collection for the Red Valentino brand.
Delicacy and femininity joined a chic metropolitan appeal in the fresh eyelet pieces, spanning from miniskirts worn with cropped matching blouses to generously cut parkas paired with lace bottoms. Mainly worked in black and white, the chic cotton style also welcomed bright accents, including the vivid red of a pretty halter neck dress enriched by floral white embroideries.
An exotic note was introduced via the vibrant prints of tropical flowers and birds splashed on flowing frocks and pajama sets, while butterfly-shaped patchwork details added a cute touch to denim designs, such as a slipdress and a jumpsuit revealing an exposed back and ruffled embellishments at the shoulders.
The brand’s signature craftsmanship stood out on cotton crochet skirts and bikinis, exuding a free-spirited, boho-chic vibe.
Versatile at heart, the lineup offered plenty of options for the Red Valentino girls, who next summer will also have the chance to shine bright at pool parties thanks to the allover sequined frocks — their hyper-feminine appeal exalted by romantic bow ties.
Sex, love, glamour and immigration.
All these hot topics, mixed with masculine queer culture, set the tone for Willy Chavarria’s runway return to New York — and boy, was he missed.
Known for his Chicano heritage vibes, Chavarria’s former stint in the Nineties, the creation of “The Love Garage,” a club in San Fransisco that embraced rave culture and gritty house music, served as one of the key components of his take on what minimalism can mean.
In this case, the usually big, oversize silhouette that has defined Chavarria took a sophisticated turn that still managed to maintain a tough edge.
The first portion of the show showcased standouts such as a black washed satin robe with matching shorts, along with an array of flared and high-waisted denim numbers, often paired with souvenir jackets or matching oversize boxy shirts. Quilted leather handbags, an item typically associated with high luxury, adorned most of the models, along with black and gold chains used as necklaces, belts and handbags, which provided a refined touch.
Part two featured a collaboration with athletic brand K-Swiss: a Nineties California Chicano tennis prep collection — oversize pastels in blue and pink with a bit of neon that enhanced sweatshirts, baggy shorts and
Chloé and Parris Gordon drew on their recent, first visit to Japan for inspiration, and delivered a clean, modern lineup with a healthy amount of artistry. They used a bright orange, ultra-thin yet super-strong fabric to craft a series of romantic blouses and dresses — unfussy cuts with carefully dosed ruffled accents, or puffy sleeves. Also uplifting: a paper-thin waxed cotton made into a bright, orange rain dress. Who needs a traditional raincoat?
The pair likes to take their clients from day to evening. With this in mind, they crafted a transformable, button-up blouse with an extra flap to wrap around the neck like a handkerchief; similarly transformable, a tan suit jacket, with straps to cinch around the waist or leave open, with a different effect. Trained at a design school in Nova Scotia that teaches all stages of the garment-making process — down to weaving materials to make fabric — the designers seek to make sturdy, well-made pieces that exude effortless chic. In a nod to their artistic mother, who encouraged their creativity growing up — they recalled she would unfurl rolls of brown paper for them to decorate — they used one of her paintings as a pattern for
Zoë Jordan worked a lively, Ibiza-flavored lineup of sporty knitwear apt for the festival circuit — or the beach. Keeping things easy, her signature cashmere tracksuits came in chic ivory tones or bright, tie-dyed numbers, reflecting her lifestyle change from the city in London to that Mediterranean outcrop where the jet-set crowd lets loose. Long, mesh tops with low, drawstring waists came in lizard green or melon yellow, new accents in a universe dominated by pinks and oranges; an Eighties-flavored layer to toss over a swimsuit. Slightly distressed touches and cutout holes added a touch of shabby chicness of the techno-festival sort, including the frayed bottom of a tie-died skirt and holes in the arms of a bright pink sweater that was dip-dyed — a new technique for the label. Also new, a crocheted dress, cut like an extra-long tank top, all stripes. The sportier looks were also striped, including halter tops and shorts, anchoring the profusion of papaya-pink.
For the spring collection of Isabel Marant’s Étoile line, the designer worked her trademark volumes into a fashionable lineup that melded seduction with comfort. Amped-up shoulders added heft — on a feminine, embroidered peasant blouse or gray acid washed jean jackets and vests. There were a lot of one-piece looks, including a vest-shorts combo in a faded tie-dye print, a long trouser jumpsuit in a western-inspired floral pattern and a dark boiler suit, cinched at the ankle, with ample volumes on the shoulders and arms. Fluidity came in the form of airy blouses and flower-printed dresses in silk chiffon while structured numbers included a double-breasted flannel suit and quilted jackets. In the footwear department, choices included ivory cowboy boots or studded white wide-leg heels.
Although the forecast may be anything but warm and balmy, spring is right around the corner. Don’t let the nice weather catch you by surprise in last season’s puffy winter jacket—it’s time to refresh your wardrobe for spring. And while you’re at it, why not spruce up your grooming routine, too? Spring cleaning doesn’t end with your closet; it’s a great time to give your skin and hair a little extra love as well. A few key items can help you get both your style and grooming up to par this season.
Here, we’ve rounded up 15 ultra-luxe style and grooming picks to help you start spring on the right foot.
The post 15 Luxurious Style and Grooming Products to Freshen Up Your Spring Look appeared first on Men's Journal.
The roving cruise and men’s shows this season have taken the fashion pack to destinations as far-flung as Marrakech, Malibu and Shanghai. And so it was that a day after the close of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, a clutch of editors found themselves sitting in a lavender field somewhere in the South of France.
Guests including Emily Ratajkowksi, Jeanne Damas and Bruna Marquezine gathered near the small town of Valensole in Provence to help Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrate the 10th anniversary of his label with his first joint women’s and men’s show.
An hour’s drive north of Aix-en-Provence, they arrived in rolling lavender fields where a pink felt ribbon of a runway unfurled as far as the eye could see, against the stunning backdrop of the Alpilles mountain chain.
“I wanted a place that looked like a postcard — almost too much like a postcard, even. It was important to me to turn that cliché into something artistic, with that pink line running through the middle like a contemporary art installation by Christo, or a painting by David Hockney,” the designer told WWD.
The invitation came in the form of a small bottle of SPF 50 sunscreen printed with the words “Le Coup de
“I have nostalgia for things I probably have never known.” The slogan embroidered on one of the big straw totes on the Celine runway could well summarize Hedi Slimane’s design ethos, though he would probably dispute that.
Suffice it to say that his childhood heroes — David Bowie, Serge Gainsbourg and The Clash, to name a few — are largely to credit for his trademark androgynous, elongated silhouettes. And with the designer working a Seventies groove, those influences loomed large over his spring men’s collection.
The sentence in question was actually borrowed from a painting by David Kramer, one of five artists who collaborated with Slimane this season, alongside Zach Bruder, André Butzer, Darby Milbrath and Carlos Valencia. “My own worst enemy,” read another — though we’ll resist the temptation to analyze that.
Paired with a pinstripe jacket, denim shirt and flares, aviator shades and white shoes, the straw bag had a distinctly Gainsbourgian panache. Those high-waisted faded jeans were worn with everything from a shrunken leather bomber jacket to a seersucker tuxedo coat — picture the Rolling Stones recording “Exile on Main Street” in the south of France.
Items like dungarees, straw boater hats and a gold lamé jacket brought to mind another
Myar is showing its colors for spring. Andrea Rosso’s army uniform upcycling label this season matched military-sourced camouflage with multi-hued patterns from deadstock Hawaiian shirts, calling the collection Re_Aloha. “We love to mix together two worlds that don’t belong together in a very harmonic way,” he explained.
The combinations’ visual effects are striking and fun. Pieces of a Hawaiian shirt, cut into camouflage shapes, were superimposed onto some uniforms. A green military fatigue pocket popped up on a similarly hued shirt emblazoned with palm trees. Blue military trousers took on a playful quality with piping made of shirting material.
On a number of garments, silhouettes of palm trees had been hand-stamped. “Every time it comes out differently,” Rosso said.
As in past seasons, Myar clothing comes with pouches containing excess fabric from its making-of. But this time, each also has a QR code through which it’s possible for people to learn about the provenance of the items and how they’ve been customized.
In another first, Myar created a dress, made of two military shirts put together. “Our biggest clients actually are females,” explained Rosso. “We have a unisex approach to the collection, even though these items are 100 percent made for men.”
The brand’s collaboration with
The heat of the desert and the cobbled streets of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern towns hung over this spare, elegant collection, which had a subtle, exotic flavor.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s shapes ranged from the boxy to the languid, with the color, pattern and texture doing most of the talking.
An elongated, marine blue shirtdress; a spare, branch-like design on the back of a long, sweeping coat, and the fringes or tassels on a sweater were among the standouts.
Luke said fluid tailoring remains the way forward for the brand, which has long been synonymous with pared-back shapes and fine details. Lucie added that the collection’s value lies in its subtlety, its “poetry and detail,” and its lightweight fabrics.
The couple have been turning their hands and minds to sustainability, too, working materials such as organic banana fiber into pieces such as the black-and-white trenchcoat that appeared in the show. Lucie said the fiber is a dream because it behaves like gazar, but it’s lighter and offers structure without the stiffness.
All of that fabric research meant that even the simplest of pieces sang — the boxy khaki workwear suits, the navy overcoats and those oversized, billowy white cotton shirts, fit for long strolls under
Pringle’s new men’s design director Giuseppe Marretta made waves with his first collection for the brand, which he raced to pull together after joining the company at the start of April. He took as his theme David Hockney’s painting, “A Bigger Splash,” and drove the collection in a whole new direction.
Formerly head of knitwear and jersey at Giorgio Armani, Marretta took a fresh look at Pringle’s offer, sending out a more graphic, modern argyle pattern, reversible cashmere knits, quilted wovens, printed organza, laser-print denim and sweaters that blended hand-knitting with technical yarns.
Even the Paris showroom setup was different: Meant to mimic Hockney’s painting, there were palm tree murals on the walls, a swimming pool design on the floor, and even a Perspex diving board that doubled as a display table.
“I wanted to bring some fun back to men’s wear, with key items from British culture and a fusion of sports and art. The young David Hockney was an inspiring artist and a style icon,” he said during a walk-through.
Denim and knits alike looked as if it they had been bleached, but they were not. Instead, Marretta used laser printing to create abstract images of a swimming pool surface on denim jeans
It’s a springtime miracle! Perry Ellis has extended its Father’s Day Spring Suiting Event through Monday, May 20. Complete suits start at just $ 70! Plus, jackets, pants, and vests are all marked down 50 percent off—or more! In fact, we found a bunch of great suits on sale at Perry Ellis for more than half off—some as high as 70 percent off. They’re listed below.
It’s not just suits. Dress shirts and dress pants are just $ 35, and all dress shoes are 50 percent off during the Spring Suiting Event. Plus, enter the code FREESHIPPING, and you’ll get that too.
From polyester suits to fresh linens, from slim and stretchy modern silhouettes, to regular cuts to Big & Tall sizes, Perry Ellis has an amazing selection of suiting options for every man. Greys, blues, and blacks, tans, whites—even a splendid wrinkle-free, turquoise stretch suit is available. If you wear a suit everyday, you need to take advantage of this sale and diversify your wardrobe. You know what they say: Dress for the job you want, not the job you have.
If you’re more of a casual guy and only want a suit for wedding, funerals, and the like, now is your chance to pick one up at amazing savings. There’s simply no reason for any man to pass up this Perry Ellis Suit Sale.
Anything Besides Suits?
Of course! Suits aren’t the only way to save at Perry Ellis. If you’ve never bought anything from perryellis.com, be sure to sign up for the email newsletter, so you can take 30 percent off your first purchase. Join the Perry perks program, to earn points with every purchase and be privy to exclusives, sales, new releases, and more. Also, the Sale section of the site always has great deals. Right now, you can get an extra 40 percent off select Sale items at perryellis.com.
So head over to the Perry Ellis Suit Sale now through May 20, and you’ll discover a plethora of bargains and deals to suit your every need.
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Where to find respite from a tech-driven society? By escaping into nature, or at least looking at pictures of it, according to Japanese designer Fumito Ganryu.
For his third standalone collection, the former Comme des Garçons designer looked at National Geographic magazine, Instagram and large-scale pictures taken by drones to create his landscape prints.
“At first my theme was architecture, but that led me to thinking, what is the new garment construction today?” said the designer backstage. “I love pictures of landscapes and the freedom they inspire, so I wanted to merge that freedom with a new way of coordinating garments, stepping away from classical codes. It’s no longer this form with that, this color with another, but rather about creating a coherent story instead: Sky prints on the top, earth prints on the bottom.”
Blues and greens dominated the first part of the show: Raindrops, glaciers, starry nights and cerulean skies were printed via inkjet on polyester shirts, tops and bomber jackets, while a technical raincoat featured vibrant leaf and grass prints.
Accessories were a strong point: models wore low-brimmed bucket hats with PVC visors by Japanese milliner Akio Hirata, while shoes were either technical sneakers created in collaboration with Salomon or easy
Designer brothers George and Michael Heaton made a few changes this season, pulling their show off the Milan runway in order to focus on a new ad campaign shot by Jordan Green. The campaign, themed around a car accident in the remote countryside and involving an English bull terrier, lands in the next few weeks on billboards and fly posters on both sides of the Atlantic.
The brothers also decamped to Rockfield Studios in Wales, recently featured in the film “Bohemian Rhapsody,” to unplug from their Manchester studio and get some fresh perspective.
The collection, on display in a Milan showroom, had more than a whiff of the countryside to it, and was done in a palette of olive green, brown, black and camel for the duo’s street-meets-utilitarian wear silhouettes. There were oversize Windbreakers inspired by fellow Mancunian Noel Gallagher, camou trousers and shorts, and hunting, field jackets and plaid coats fit for cold Welsh mornings.
The standout print featured vintage cars on T-shirts and pajama-style tops, a reference to the vintage cars parked in the driveway in front of Rockfield and to the theme of the upcoming ad campaign.
MILAN — After working with the likes of Nico Vascellari, Reilly Hey and Sue Tilley, and in January with her mentor Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Venturini Fendi will reveal today the latest Fendi guest designer: Luca Guadagnino. The “Call Me By Your Name” director has designed a special print for Fendi’s men’s spring 2020 collection to be unveiled here Monday in a new location for the brand, the neoclassic 18th-century Royal Villa.
A longtime friend of Venturini Fendi, Guadagnino first worked with the brand on a video for spring 2006. In 2007, they partnered to set up the First Sun production company, which produced the director’s acclaimed 2009 film “I Am Love,” starring Tilda Swinton.
Guadagnino, whose “Call Me By Your Name” received an Oscar nomination for Best Picture and one for Actor in a Leading Role for Timothée Chalamet’s interpretation, in 2012 founded the production company Frenesy Film specifically for taking on projects with major fashion brands, and he has directed or produced short films or commercials for, among others, and in addition to Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, Cartier and Pomellato, and, most recently, Valentino.
Fendi chairman and chief executive officer Serge Brunschwig revealed the collaboration during an interview at Fendi’s
Buckle up and put on those Biggie sunglasses because Donatella is roaring into town in her arty black Ferrari, and she’s ready for some fun, Nineties Versace style. Boy, did the designer pile it on for spring, with leopard spots, colored crystals, car prints and Lilly Pulitzer-decamps-to-Miami neon brights. And that was the men’s wear, not the few women’s looks.
Few surfaces in the collection were untouched by print, gloss or sparkle as models glowed and flashed like beacons on a dark road. Bold and garish, the show was 100-proof Versace, utterly true to the brand’s roots, and to the Gianni-cum-Donatella aesthetic of more, more, more – and repeat – preferably while swinging a leopard-print bag.
There was nothing subtle going on here, what with the big Gianni Versace signature splashed over neckties, or picked out in lines of tiny crystals on silk patterned shirts. For anyone wondering who Versace’s new owners are, there were some big clues in the baseball caps and Gianni Versace signature socks, classic entry price merch to please the folks at the publicly-quoted Capri Holdings.
While the yellow, orange, green or blue-tinged sunglasses didn’t carry big branding, they were a vintage house style, designed for the Notorious B.I.G.
“For me it’s the perfect serendipitous moment. I’d been looking to do a show and I wanted to do something very special, and then the invitation came,” said Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller, who for her debut stand-alone men’s runway display on Wednesday evening in Florence, as the special guest of the Pitti Uomo trade show, chose the luxuriant gardens of the Villa Palmieri as the stage for a collection fusing Old and New World aesthetics. The storyline was fed through a minimalist, Nineties filter, with a focus on clean, monochromatic total looks. It was easy to see the commercial potential in the line, which felt very urban and of the moment, with the airy, summery mood extending to the 30 tailoring silhouettes.
The designer sent out endless variations on the suit with a wide diversity of fits, including the return to the three-button silhouette with a slightly softer shoulder and a subtly pearlized luster in the fabric; boxy silhouettes echoed on shirts with drop sleeves, and a spin on the three-piece suit, pairing a coat with a matching jacket worn over bare skin. Waight Keller also included a couple of girls in the lineup, cementing the collection’s de facto genderless feel,
INDUSTRIAL VENUE: Alessandro Sartori has gotten attendees of his Ermenegildo Zegna shows accustomed to unexpected and often gargantuan locations.
For the upcoming spring 2020 show, the label’s artistic director has selected a former industrial complex, known as Area Ex Falck, located in Sesto San Giovanni on the outskirts of Milan. The show is scheduled at 8:30 p.m on June 14.
“This place allows me to continue to tell the story of incredible and unexpected venues in Milan through their essence. It’s a continuum: what a place meant in the past continues to live in the present and will continue to live in the future with a different soul,” Sartori told WWD.
The designer also teased the #usetheexisting dedicated show hashtag.
The show venue was home to Italy’s storied iron and steel company Falck, which was founded in 1906 and then converted in the Nineties to the production of energy from traditional and renewable sources. Dented by decreasing sales during the Seventies, the company dismissed the Sesto San Giovanni plants.
The original industrial site comprised five different plants called Unione, Concordia, Vulcano, Vittoria and Vittoria S, which covered 32 million square feet in the Sixties. The exact spot for the Ermenegildo Zegna show inside the area
Having Palazzo Vecchio as the backdrop of a runway show is a privilege that only a quintessential Florentine brand such as Salvatore Ferragamo with a long history in this Tuscan city could hope to pull off. Of course such an incredible backdrop might have become a bit overwhelming with a weak collection. But that wasn’t the case for the lineup creative director Paul Andrew showed on Tuesday night.
The antique beauty of the Piazza della Signoria square actually created a charming contrast to the slightly futuristic take on the utilitarian aesthetic injected into the collection. Salvatore Ferragamo’s incredible craftsmanship and heritage stood out, but in a new version, never nostalgic or retro, but projected into the future. The high-tech approach to the treatment of materials, including leather which was embossed and then waxed for a glossy effect, as well a certain sharpness in the cuts, conveyed a look that felt very modern and cool yet never cold or too minimal. Accessories helped put the focus on the duality of the lineup: while the sailing bags and the leather sandals exuded classic elegance, the multipocket bags and chunky boots offered the most functional and cutting-edge essence of Andrew’s fashion proposal for
Yixi Chen stuck to what she knows best and presented a collection of futuristic performance wear pieces like seasons past. She created a new narrative around these pieces and split her collection into three story lines, which she said were “a commentary on class-based societies.”
The first round of looks — distressed hoodies and patchwork puffers — referenced the lower class. Silhouettes tightened up and sportswear pieces such as logo pullover jackets and straight-leg nylon trackpants showed the uniformity of the working class. A crisp white après-ski wear outfit, which felt heavy for a spring collection, led the final round of looks of Chen’s elite class.
There were plenty of commercially desirable pieces in the lineup of waterproof jackets, puffer jackets and rip-stop nylon trackpants that would be sure to please the streetwear crowd, as proven by some showgoers who were already wearing full C2H4 look.
Chen is most innovative, however, when it comes to materials. She presented a black puffer jacket that reflected duochrome purple and green under the spotlight, which had audience members snapping away.
James Long isn’t one to hold back. His spring 2020 collection for Iceberg was a loud, colorful concoction of head-to-toe neon looks, bright patchwork prints created with artist Peter Blake, large logos, fishnets, retro ski sunglasses and all that is trending.
The idea: To mix the brand’s Italians roots with London’s eccentricity and punk heritage — and to just keep enjoying the process.
Long is definitely having fun. Since taking the helm of Iceberg he has dreamt up collections where Snow White hits the club in studded leather harnesses or Snoopy takes center stage on intarsia knits.
This season, Mickey and the Looney Tunes made flash appearances on oversized T-shirts and sweaters in the form of distorted illustrations, but it was Blake’s Pop-art graphics that featured most heavily all over denim, matching crop jackets and knits.
They showcased variations of the U.S. flag with the word “Amerika” printed all over.
“Subliminally there is a statement, I’m in Italy, I’m English, my mum is Irish, America is a problem. I thought it was really relevant for now,” said Long backstage.
While the focus on denim and sporty tracksuits remained, there was a heftier dose of tailoring added to the mix. But Long’s version came in bright neon
A better return for Josh Rosen? Adam Humphries in the slot for the Pats? Here are the biggest missed opportunities of the offseason.
www.espn.com – NFL
Spring is by far my favorite season, first, because everything seems to be alive … and second, because I’m a sadist and I like to see people have allergies (just kidding).
XBIZ.com – Opinion
You’ve been asking your barber for “the usual” for too long now. These three styles are trending for spring, but they’re also fairly low-maintenance and easy to wear for most men. Whether you’re going for something with a little length or shorter on the sides, here are the best spring haircuts and styles to consider this season, according to three experts.
“Instead of that buzzed, faded look, where the sides go from thick at the top to sparse, opt for more allover evenness on the sides. It’s a very tailored, groomed look that’s still short.” — Oscar Blandi, celebrity stylist
“Have your barber use shears and razors instead of clippers for a rounder shape. To style, use a foam or pomade and blow dry and shape hair.” — Paul Wilson, American Crew’s global artistic director
Buzz Cut 2.0
“For fine hair, a choppy cut with a little length in front keeps you sharp. For texture, I like Acqua di Parma Serum—it’s great for all the hair on your head.” — Natalia Bruschi, celebrity groomer
Looking for more hairstyle and cut ideas? Here are 10 that always work that’ll help you get looks like Brad Pitt, Charlie Hunnam, and more.
The post The Best Haircuts to Try This Spring, According to Experts appeared first on Men's Journal.
If you want to clean up your facial hair for spring, look no further than the 1990s, says John Flemal of Urban Lift Salon in Chicago.
For some middle ground between clean-shaven and a lumberjack beard, heed Flemal’s advice. These three styles shape up your facial hair, whether you want to tame an unruly beard, accentuate sideburns, or rock a mustache.
1. Strong Sideburns
It’s a great transition for growing out a fade. The farther below the earlobe, the less conservative. The L-shape is trending, too; try this only with dense facial hair.
2. Beard With Attitude
Long, unruly beards are a cold-weather look. Hack yours into shape, leaving it thick on the sides and under the chin, and cleaning up around your lips.
3. ’Stache and Stubble
If you opt for a mustache, go small and pair it with stubble. Gradually trim a long beard short until you reach desired hairiness.
Every self-respecting man needs a wallet. If yours is threadbare, dirty from years of use, or—dare we say—held together by Velcro, you need an upgrade. (Pronto if you’re guilty of the Velcro…)
Of course finding the right wallet isn’t always easy. Some guys are minimalists, while others need serious storage solutions that minimize bulk. There’s a bevy of different materials, styles, and durabilities out there, so we’ve narrowed down a selection for every man. Here are our favorites of spring 2019.
1. John Varvatos Star USA Bushwick Billfold
You can’t go wrong with a classic billfold wallet. This one’s made from cow leather, so it’ll weather over time—developing scuffs, wrinkles, and a rich patina. There are four card slots, so you’ll have just enough storage for your necessities.
[$ 128; johnvarvatos.com]
2. Bally Teisel Bovine Leather Coin Wallet
Fancy a wallet with a little more sex appeal? This option is sporty but still refined, crafted from scratch-resistant cow leather. It doesn’t skimp on functionality either: There are slits for banknotes and cards, as well as a popper pocket for change.
[$ 275; bally.com]
3. Smythson Panama 6 Card Wallet
Cross-grain calf leather adds subtle intrigue to your everyday wallet. This is ideal for men who like to keep all their cards handy; there are six card slots and two side pockets.
[$ 240; smythson.com]
4. Dango M1 Maverick Bifold
This unique vertical wallet is designed for those who play hard. It combines durable, corrosion-resistant aluminum with top-grain leather, and features an RFID-blocking card cavity. In all, it can store 14-16 cards, plus cash.
[$ 109; dangoproducts.com]
5. Taylor Stitch Minimalist Billfold
Navy and tan: It’s a classic color pairing that never fails to look sharp. True to its name, the Minimalist Billfold is a slim wallet with hidden card slots to minimize bulk and stretch over time. We love that the wallet is produced via small-batch manufacturing with exclusive materials (like 100% full-grain Spanish cowhide and dead stock fabrics). But you know what that means: You’ve got to get it while you can.
[$ 98; taylorstitch.com]
Check out our five favorite frames. You can consider them spring style MVPs.
Emporio Armani A4123
Go for an unexpected pop of color that’s still tame enough to wear everywhere. These full-rim navy specs from Emporio Armani are suitable for the beach, an al fresco lunch, and even with a casual spring or summer suit.
[$ 165; sunglasshut.com]
Montblanc Aviator Frame Metal Sunglasses
These metal aviators boast durability and functional, utilitarian style what with their polarized lenses and double bridge design.
[$ 600; montblanc.com]
Evoke a 60s vibe with these timeless striped-tortoise acetate frames (also available in black and classic tortoise). They’re bold, cool, and perfect for a laidback sense of style.
[$ 173; ray-ban.com]
Spy Optic Sundowner
You can’t beat the price of these sunglasses. They’re made of a near-indestructible thermoplastic frames and polycarbonate lenses, which are far more resistant to impacts than glass or plastic. The Sundowner also boasts 100% UV protection, making them a stellar choice for beach jaunts.
[$ 65, spyoptic.com]
Elevate your look with these Persol frames. The classic color options—brown and gold, silver and light blue, black and green, havana and gradient brown—are timeless, but the unique curvature of the bridge adds a deeper level of intrigue.
[$ 340; persol.com]
The post The Best Sunglasses to Wear This Spring Are Timeless and Effortlessly Cool appeared first on Men's Journal.
While there can be a fair amount of sticker shock when perusing for a new timepiece, consider it an investment you can pass down to future generations. Today’s pilot, diving, and chronograph watches are crafted to last a lifetime.
Here are five of our favorites, all new for spring 2019.
Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa-47mm Custom Gray Dial
This automatic mechanical diving watch is made from the same near-bulletproof material comprising the hull of Luna Rossa’s AC75 (Panerai is their official sponsor for the 36th America’s Cup). At night, the hour markers and dots glow a luminous green.
[$ 21,600; panerai.com]
Tudor Black Bay
Another handsome diving watch, Tudor’s Black Bay timepiece is waterproof up to 660ft. We especially love the burgundy fabric strap and polished satin finish of its case.
[$ 3,400; tudorwatch.com]
Breitling Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown
Stand out in Breathing’s steel and sapphire blue dive watch. It’s the perfect representation of the brand’s partnership with Outerknown—the sustainable apparel manufacturer—which just so happens to be co-founded by surfing juggernaut Kelly Slater. The strap is made from a special yarn crafted from nylon waste.
[$ 7,100; breitling.com]
Omega Speedmaster CK2998
This sporty and timeless chronograph is a classic for Omega. The first iteration was released in 1959. The black, perforated leather strap; scratch-resistant crystal housing an anti-reflective finish; and pop of red on seconds hand make this one bold timepiece.
[$ 6,500; omegawatches.com]
Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback
Another 60s throwback, this chronograph pilot watch is a stunner what with its brown nubuck leather strap and bronze-grained dial.
[$ 7,700; zenithwatches.com]
The post 5 Luxury Watches New for Spring 2019 That Are Totally Worth the Splurge appeared first on Men's Journal.
World, meet Archie Harrison Mountbatten-Windsor, the latest addition to the British royal family. He was born on May 6, but his parents, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex (better known as Prince Harry and Meghan Markle) revealed his name today at St. George’s Hall in Windsor Castle, the BBC reports. Shortly afterward, the announcement was made on the couple’s official Instagram page.
According to the BBC, young Archie is seventh in line for the throne, but his parents chose not to give him an official royal title. Instead, he’ll go by the less formal moniker of Master Archie Mountbatten-Windsor. The name Archie came as something of a surprise, since it has no known connections with any other member of the royal family. While introducing him to members of the press earlier today, new parents Prince Harry and Meghan reflected on the joys of getting to know their newborn son.
“He has the sweetest temperament, he’s really calm,” Meghan told the BBC. “He’s been the dream.”
“I don’t know who he gets that from,” Prince Harry joked.
While their sleeping baby was certainly the main event today, the Duke and Duchess both won praise for their stylish outfits. Many were impressed with Meghan’s white dress, which didn’t hide her postpartum baby bump, CNN reports. Prince Harry was no slouch either, appearing before the cameras in a sharp light grey suit and navy blue tie.
In fact, that lighter color is a perfect shade to try on this spring and summer. Want to get Prince Harry’s look? Scroll down for your shopping list.
Suit: Canali Milano Classic Fit Solid Wool Suit; $ 1,895
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes Pinstripe Suit; $ 1,750
Suit: Hugo Boss Huge/Genius Slim Fit Solid Wool Suit; $ 895
Suit Jacket: Richard James Navy Seishin Prince Of Wales Checked Slub Linen-Blend Suit Jacket; $ 1,275
Suit Pants: Richard James Navy Hyde Prince Of Wales Checked Slub Linen-Blend Suit Trousers; $ 425
Tie: Drake’s Navy 50oz Royal Twill Printed Silk Tie; $ 185
Tie: Turnbull & Asser Slim Navy Wool Blend Weekend Tie; $ 195
Tie: The Tie Bar Midnight Navy Solid Cotton Tie; $ 19
The post Spring Suiting: How to Get Prince Harry’s Royal Baby Debut Look appeared first on Men's Journal.
Renowned for its rugged workwear, Carhartt makes a surprising amount of gear and apparel that’s fantastic for warm weather months. So we decided to share with you nine of Carhartt’s best summer clearance items, all on sale right now.
From shorts and t-shirts to shoes to polos, Carhartt’s warm weather gear is just as well made as its legendary dungarees. And while it all maintains that hard-working aesthetic, with plenty of earth tones and natural fibers, there’s a good amount of performance apparel as well. With cotton/spandex blends that move with you to moisture-wicking and odor-trapping polyesters, Carhartt gear is as versatile as it is tough. So it’s great for almost any outdoor occasion.
No matter if you’ve got a long day in the yard ahead of you, or a lazy afternoon hanging around on the lawn, Carhartt gear is comfortable, stylish, and durable.
We stuck with lightweight, spring and summer-ready gear for this roundup. However, if you love Carhartt’s amazing year-round, all-weather workwear as much as we do, the Clearance section is loaded with 77 items like coats, boots, flannels, and base layers on sale for up to 50 percent off right now. So it’s a great time to stock up on gear you’ll need year-round. There’s even activity-specific gear like wading bibs on Clearance.
If you love Carhartt as much as we do, you may want to consider up for its Ground Breakers Loyalty Program. You’ll earn points on the gear you already buy and stuff you already do, like writing a product review, taking a survey, and updating your profile. Rack up enough points and use them to get even more Carhartt stuff—like exclusives you can’t get anywhere else. Want to sign up? Anyone 18 years or older, living in the contiguous United States and Canada, can join.
So check out some of our favorite summer gear from Carhartt below. And if you’re like us, you’ll be checking back on the Carhartt Clearance page often. It’s a gold mine.
The post 9 Awesome Spring & Summer Picks from the Carhartt Clearance appeared first on Men's Journal.
Dodgy skies don’t mean you have to go out looking like it’s laundry day. Designers are mixing hydrophobic fabrics in with their top-of-the-line threads. So, whether you’re headed to the office, a weekend getaway, or even a rainy run, here’s how to stay dry and keep your style on point. Here are our favorite looks for spring 2019.
Get the look (pictured above): Herno Waterproof Seam-Sealed Raincoat ($ 855; bloomingdales.com); Perry Ellis America Capsule II Denim Jacket ($ 345; perryellisamerica.com); Outerknown Sojourn Short-Sleeve Henley ($ 58; outerknown.com); Levi’s Skateboarding Skate 511 in Indigo Warp Rinse ($ 80; levi.com).
Get the look: Todd Snyder Plaid Reversible Trench Coat ($ 1,398; toddsnyder.com). Polo Ralph Lauren Morgan Herringbone Sport Coat ($ 695; ralphlauren.com); Ben Sherman White-Solid Oxford Dress Shirt ($ 99; bensherman.com); Polo Ralph Lauren Tick-Weave Suit Trousers ($ 350; ralphlauren.com); To Boot New York Shelby Chelsea Boot ($ 398; nordstrom.com)
Boss Rain Jacket ($ 645; hugoboss.com). Rag & Bone Anson Zip Hoodie ($ 325; rag-bone.com). Salvatore Ferragamo Knit Sweater (price upon request; ferragamo.com). Michael Kors Cargo Hybrid Jogger ($ 148; michaelkors.com). Reebok Sole Fury ($ 90; reebok.com).
The post The Rainy-Day Fashion Guide to Stay Dry and Stylish All Spring Long appeared first on Men's Journal.
The thing about Todd Snyder clothing is not only does it look great, it’s also extremely well-crafted. Much of it’s made from fantastic materials and clever patterns you just don’t see anywhere else. From supple chinos to killer blazers to Todd’s legendary collaborations, this is couture that’s not just stylish, but made for everyday. It’s affordable, too. And you wouldn’t have to look hard to find gear that’s far more costly and not nearly as high quality. It’s quality fashion made for the modern guy.
There’s even an entire section of the site dedicated to brands, where you’ll discover great curated collections from legendary fashion names such as Blundstone, Filson, and Red Wing to respected newcomers such as Mack Weldon and Scosha.
So check out some of these great picks for spring.
The post 7 Must-Have Picks from Todd Snyder’s Spring Collection 2019 appeared first on Men's Journal.
Ready for spring? J.Crew Factory is. Take 60 percent off select styles of shirts, pants, shorts, and more. It’s time to put winter in your rearview, and pick up new gear with bright colors, winsome prints, floral shirts, twill pants, and lightweight sweaters.
All the attention at this event is focused on the blooming colors of the season. From button-downs and pullovers to chinos, joggers, t-shirts, windbreakers, and more, there’s a huge selection of merchandise marked down 60 percent. There’s even a surprising selection of shorts and swim trunks that are just right for summer.
We even found some sunglasses and cloth belts that are ideal for warmer weather, so you may as well stock up. Summer clothes will not be this affordable again this year.
Select styles are 60 percent off at J.Crew Factory. But this event is so far-reaching even New Arrivals are marked down up to 60 percent. And if you shop the Clearance section, you can take an extra 40 percent off by using the code BLOOM.
So head on over to J.Crew Factory today and take advantage of awesome deals on spring-ready garb. Here’s a selection of some of the great deals you can find for up to 60 percent off this week.
The post Save Up to 60% on Your Spring Wardrobe at J.Crew Factory appeared first on Men's Journal.
We should stop making resolutions in January, and instead time them for spring. Everything is uplifting once the clouds clear and the flowers bloom. Our minds open, along with our senses, and optimism smells all the sweeter now than in the doldrums of winter. This season is also when the best spring colognes make their debut—or when the classic ones come out of hiding and add even more zest to the air. Notes of bergamot, lavender, vetiver, and eucalyptus hint at warmer days ahead, which is why we love that they shine in these seven scents.
If you’re in the market for a new signature scent, here’s an intoxicating roster of new bottles, as well as some rousing classics (plus one remix). These are the spring colognes that should be on every man’s radar.
Adult products distributor East Coast News (ECN) has released its 2019 Spring Catalog, featuring a range of new and best-selling pleasure products.
XBIZ.com – Pleasure & Retail
If you’re ready for all-day comfort and all-weather versatility, then put those big, heavy boots back in the closet until fall. Where the gym and the trail meet the sidewalk, that’s where you’ll find these seven versatile spring sneakers, perfect for active guys on the go.
Cross trainers are all the rage these days, and with good reason. Their versatility is the key; whether you’re crushing a HIIT workout, pounding squats, or just pounding the pavement, a good cross training sneaker should take you wherever you need to go. They also provide excellent support for whatever adventure awaits.
Most of these options take advantage of the trendy blend of knit comfort with performance details. Responsive footbeds, fantastic support, and breathable and lightweight materials were our touchstones in putting together this list. All-day comfort was a must.
As with most sneakers, there are plenty of color and style options to personalize any of these shoes. We chose these subtle colorways, full of blacks, greys, greens, and blues, so you can wear these sneakers most anywhere. In the right environment, you could even wear them to the office.
No matter where your next adventure takes you, tackle it head-on in one of these fantastic, versatile spring sneakers for active guys.
The post The 7 Best Versatile Spring Sneakers for Active Guys On the Go appeared first on Men's Journal.
Fashion comes and goes, but a solid pair of everyday trousers never goes out of style. We love our denim, but jeans aren’t appropriate for every occasion. And chinos can’t take the punishment of everyday wear. We’ve been rocking our Flint and Tinder 365s for a few years now, and can safely report they’re among the most comfortable and durable pants in our closet. Certainly, the most used.
New for 2019, Flint and Tinder’s 365s—available exclusively at Huckberry ($ 98)—have unleashed even more options that make them the perfect pants for everyday. With your choice of Slim or Straight cuts, inseam sizing options, and a slew of fresh colors to choose from, there’s a reason these twills are so appropriately named. We can wear them anywhere, and with anything, every day of the year.
We’ve written about 365s before, and were impressed with their softness, versatility, and durability. We also liked their neutral earth-y tones.
Soft and stylish, yet durable and tough, we’ve worn our 365s to the office as well as the bar—and felt comfortable in them every step of the way. We’ve even worn them in the yard and doing light maintenance on the motorcycle. No complaints.
What’s more, Flint and Tinder 365s are now available in inseam options from 30-34 inches, to make sure every guy gets his proper fit. (Waist sizes range from 28″ to 38″). Flint and Tinder also offers up three new colors for 2019, for a total of seven neutral shades that will work as well with a plain white T as they do with a casual button-down. The straight cut also delivers more room.
But apparently guys had been asking F and T for a slim-fit 365 for a while now, though. And here they are. More snug through the thigh and particularly in the calf, the Slim 365s’ tapered design is slightly more stylish than its Straight sibling. Both options are fantastic, though, and the 3 percent Lycra adds enough stretch to make them both super-comfortable and versatile.
The only downside is, having both in our arsenal has certainly made the morning decision of “Which pants should I wear today” that much more confounding.
With a wider variety of sizes and colors, and for a pant that can surely be worn 365 days a year, Flint and Tinder 365s are worth every penny. We’ve got some on today—and probably will tomorrow, too. Check ’em out.
Get it: Pick up Flint and Tinder 365 pants ($ 98) exclusively at Huckberry.
Spring is right around the corner. That means it’s high time to adjust your wardrobe accordingly and pick up the perfect lightweight spring jacket on sale.
Luckily, some of our favorite retailers are making room in their inventory for spring and summer fashion. So this is the ideal time to pick up the layers that will carry you through till Memorial Day.
We’ve put together a list of 11 awesome picks that are currently on sale. Check it out below to find a great deal, no matter what you’re looking at for spring.
Whether you prefer a technical weather-resistant garment, sleek leather or suede, or a comfortable and versatile shirt-jacket, there’s something here to suit every man’s personal style.
From windbreakers and rain jackets to protect you from the elements in spring’s unpredictable weather to trendy pile fleece and fashionable camo, there’s a spring jacket that’s just right for you. The best part? They’re all on sale right now.
The post 11 Lightweight Spring Jacket Deals You Need to Jump On Quick appeared first on Men's Journal.
While we love a good pair of jeans as much as anybody, falling into a rut and wearing the same few pairs every day is never a good idea. With spring right around the corner, now’s the perfect time to revamp your lineup and get some fresh new pants into your closet.
From casual, everyday wear to dressing up for an evening out, here are four pairs that will work well—and keep you looking good—no matter where you take them this spring.
PAIGE Lennox Pant
[$ 189; paige.com]
Dolce & Gabbana Cotton Pant
[$ 745; dolcegabbana.com]
Life After Denim Weekend Chino
[$ 138; lifeafterdenim.com]
Michael Kors Beach Trouser
[$ 98; michaelkors.com]
The post The 4 Best Men’s Pants to Update Your Wardrobe This Spring appeared first on Men's Journal.
There’s never been a better time to wear sneakers. Once a humble footwear item designed specifically for athletic pursuits, sneakers have become elevated into the world of high fashion, and envelope-pushing designs abound. Picking up a fresh, bright pair of new sneakers is a great way to make a statement this spring.
From tried-and-true classics like Converse One Stars to top-tier examples from storied fashion houses like Versace, there’s truly a sneaker for everyone nowadays. But you don’t have to be a hypebeast to pull off wearing a pair. Below, we rounded up seven sneaks that deserve your consideration this season.
New Balance 247 Mesh
[$ 69-$ 129; newbalance.com]
[$ 450; fratellirossetti.com]
Bottega Veneta Speedster Sneaker
[$ 790; bottegaveneta.com]
[$ 100; footlocker.com]
Converse One Star Dark Star Vintage Suede Low Top
[$ 75; converse.com]
Versace Chain Reaction
[$ 995; versace.com]
Heirloom Morrison Sneaker
[$ 395; heirloomnyc.com]
We happily endorse the spring uniform of T-shirts, sneakers, and jeans—provided you pick the right ones. With that in mind, we’ve curated our favorite new spring staples, which will take that classic look to the next level.
Whether you prefer to rock a pocket tee, a henley, or a V-neck, we’ve got you covered. Here are our favorite shirts for spring 2019.
The post 3 Crazy-Comfortable T-shirts You’ll Want to Live in All Spring appeared first on Men's Journal.
Start building your spring wardrobe today with this incredible sale from Perry Ellis. For a limited time, take up to 50 percent off all Portfolio dress pants.
Perry Ellis Portfolio slacks provide a mix of sleek and classy. And with three fits—very slim, slim and modern fit—there’s a style and size for every guy. Want a fresh, contemporary look at work? Go for a pair of flat front men’s slacks. Want something a little more classic? Perry’s double pleated trousers impress by paying homage to the timeless looks of yesteryear.
Iridescent, pinstripe, plaid, wool, melange, textured, bengaline, solid, sharkskin, herringbone, heathered, check— well, you get it. There’s a pattern to suit any style and every occasion, in a variety of contemporary and classic colors.
Modern fit is for guys who want a slightly wider pant that’s not too tight and not too loose. Slim fit results in a slimmer feel through the waist, and a straighter finish through the hips and thighs. Very slim fit is for guys who want skinny without constriction, culminating in a sleek pant that’s trimmer through the waist, hips, and thighs.
Whichever you choose, Perry Ellis dress pants are an excellent addition for the on-the-go businessman. Perry Ellis performance features, including non-iron, stretch and wrinkle-free, give you a leg up on style. And machine washable slacks allow you to skip the dry cleaner.
But Wait, There’s More!
There’s more to this sale than just pants. Perry has a slew of great clothes on sale. Casual pants are 40 percent off through March 10, and throughout the month of March you can get 40 percent of select styles across the board, including dress shirts, shoes, jackets, and more.
Pot not sweet enough for you? Right now, use the code EXTRA10 to take an additional 10 percent off everything that’s on sale. Any pants, any shirt, any belt, any watch, any accessory—yes, anything that’s marked down at perryellis.com, you get another 10 percent off. That means many of the brand’s most popular styles will end up over half off.
If you were thinking about reinvigorating your spring wardrobe, don’t wait.
The post Spring Style Starts Here! Perry Ellis Dress Pants (And More) Are Up To 50% Off appeared first on Men's Journal.
A FRESH FACE: Jonathan Anderson has always seen his role both at JW Anderson and Loewe as a “cultural agitator” as much as designer.
A longtime champion of photography and pushing the boundaries of image-making, he launched the “Your Picture/Our Future” project last year, in a bid to shine the spotlight on the new generation of photographers.
Now he has tapped Julie Greve, one of the winners of the competition, for his latest spring 2019 campaign, which will be released this week.
The campaign, dubbed “Jagged Whispers Ashore” includes a series of black-and-white images that have a nostalgic, raw feel to them, as well as a film shot by Greve. She worked alongside Anderson, stylist Benjamin Bruno and the creative agency M/M Paris to conceptualize the images and film.
Greve, who is U.K.-based, was one of three winners of Anderson’s “Your Picture/Our Future” photography competition. She also worked on the brand’s fall 2018 campaign alongside the other two winners.
As part of the initiative, which is supported by Prince Charles’ charity The Princes Trust, Anderson was flooded with more than 1,800 submissions from young, 18- to 30-year-old imagemakers. He selected three winners and curated an exhibition in Covent Garden last May, to showcase some of
Lebanese designers George Azzi and Assaad Osta presented their silk road inspired couture collection in Paris. The designers, who both worked with Elie Saab, before launching their own label, have known each other since design school days and shared a mutual fascination with journey of dressmaking. “It was always very fascinating to us how silk as a luxury had to travel from one side of the earth to another to get to the royal courts of Europe,” Osta said. Each piece from the collection paid tribute to a city, monument or memorable landmark along the road. The designers used various techniques including pleating, antique embroideries and the sculptured structures to reflect the journey. The color palette reflected of the skies from dusk to dawn, with shades of jade green, cerulean blue, jasmine white, powder pink, lilac, mulberry yellow and twilight blue.
“The idea of how secretive and protected the provenance and art of silk making was is very similar to couture, the savoir faire, the well-kept secret of the couture house, and the journey that undertakes every piece,” Azzi added. The designers have caught the attention of celebrities, dressing Beyoncé, Cardi B and Kendall Jenner.
It was a striking scene. Ghostly couture silhouettes designed by Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor, the duo behind Aganovich, seemed eerier still once set against the backdrop of a carpenter’s workshop.
A roaring fire rattled the panes of the Parisian atelier to the sound of pigeons cooing while models slowly navigated their way along the machines, surrounded by wood planks and various hardware. The label’s second couture collection explored the story of a woman on a journey: “She’s armed and protected, but as she goes through life things happen and she becomes someone different,” Aganovich explained.
This was expressed by trailing unfinished hems, giving the impression of the looks unraveling before the viewers’ eyes. The models’ faces were constricted by veils, with the occasional addition of fake locks of hair piled on top of their heads.
The looks were all about contrast. White billowing silhouettes were pitted against yellow plaid suits, a Victorian gown followed a jacket with a structured waist, and a delicate feather-rimmed skirt was given a hard edge when paired with leather boots held up by safety pins.
As expected of a couture collection, all the materials were treated in Paris by the label’s atelier. The brand uses the same patterns as
Decadence — a word tingling with intrigue, and the new object of John Galliano’s fascination for his Maison Margiela Artisanal collection.
The designer spent the past four couture seasons defining “a New Glamour,” the results of which are the “blood coursing through the veins of the Maison Margiela,” he notes in the latest installment of the podcast, created to provide context to his collections. Now, he’s ready to move on.
The collection Galliano showed on Monday was all about decadence, which he equates with excess, and what’s more excessive today than the insatiable thirst for technology, especially among Gen Z types? “The overstimulation of computer-generated imagery alters reality and degenerates the truth. Chaotic and unsettling, it is a confusion of the senses rooted in an over-satiation that inevitably overspills,” his program read. He thus wondered if now is the time for a counter movement, one from frenzy to something resembling restraint.
The show space at Margiela headquarters fueled overstimulation, covered in a wild, aggressive graffiti motif made all the more dizzying by the mirrored floor. The only image to emerge with clarity from the visual dissonance was that of a poodle in a color Galliano loves — vibrant Yves Klein blue.
Neon and tie-dyed looks, cargo pants, animal prints, tailored pantsuits and skirt suits, slipdresses, rocker-inspired jackets and grunge are touted to be key looks in the contemporary department this spring. That’s the word from fashion directors of department and specialty stores, as well as web sites, who were polled about what they consider to be spring’s biggest trends.
Here’s what they had to say.
Heather Shimokawa, vice president for fashion direction, ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s:
“Leopard print was a huge fall trend and we are really excited about the evolution of animal print for spring with great snakeskin and colorful leopard prints. Our customer loves this print and we will see updated versions on T-shirts, wrap dresses and denim. We are also loving the newer silhouettes for spring with wraps, ties and knots that span across all categories from dresses, belted shorts and pants to fresh swim styles. Wide-leg jean that emerged last season will be everywhere this spring in all lengths — cropped, full and flared. The wash is lighter with a vintage Seventies feel. What is really new is the way designers stretched the category beyond the jean — we are excited about the jumpsuits, tailored denim dresses and skirts that we are
© ℗ Originally released 1960, 1962, 1967 SONY BMG MUSIC ENTERTAINMENT (P) 1992 SONY BMG MUSIC ENTERTAINMENT
LONDON — Jonathan Anderson is looking to the Eighties works of Gilbert & George, and specifically their early street shots of East End boys, for a men’s and women’s capsule that will launch Dec. 3 at Matchesfashion.com.
JW Anderson x Gilbert & George is part of the designer’s spring/summer 2019 collection and is meant to celebrate the artists, their take on masculinity and British modern life. Anderson has focused on three of his favorite works by the artistic duo: “Guard Plants” (1980), “Dog Boy” (1980) and “Heavy” (1988).
Gilbert & George’s candid shots of “normal” kids on the streets of London’s East End helped to make them famous, and by the end of the decade, works such as Heavy had become more stylized and reflective of the duo’s love of William Blake’s poetry.
“Guard Plants” shows the face of a boy in military-style uniform framed by leaves and vines in intense primary colors, while “Dog Boy” is a black-and-white shot of a teenage kid flanked by rows of flowers in full bloom. “Heavy” shows three dreamy young men floating in the sky with hair that looks as if it’s on fire.
JW Anderson x Gilbert & George
Anderson said he wanted the collection to capture
Name: Neglect Adult Patients
Main message: Designer Junnosuke Watanabe has a diverse background, having studied political science and economics at Waseda University and performed as a member of a Japanese music group. For his first runway show, he played on his unusual brand name and turned out a hospital-themed collection, even sending out models in mint green gowns and scrub suits. There were also T-shirts and sweatshirts with slogans such as “Touch me, I’m heavy sick” and “Medical play.” He filled out the offering with a series of shorts and jackets in red plaid, leopard print and ath-leisure fabrics.
The result: Despite some odd English phrases, the clothes were pedestrian and showed Watanabe’s inexperience, although he’ll likely find customers among his fans. But it’s not clear that he needed a runway show to do it.
Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Yohji Yamamoto alum Mitsuru Okazaki’s brand is only in its second season, but it is already establishing itself as one to watch during Tokyo Fashion Week. The designer is adept at creating unexpected shapes out of simple textiles, such as the denim skirts topped with petal-like layers or the white pants covered in pyramid-shaped puckers that he sent down his spring runway. He also did interesting things with concealed zippers, placing them on balloon sleeves and pant legs so that when zipped open they looked like multiple slits, sometimes in contrasting colors. Diagonal stripes and colorblocking gave movement to otherwise simple tapered trousers and button-down shirts.
The result: The collection was both cohesive and inventive, as well as casual and real-world friendly, making it a strong second effort. And unlike many designers who show in Tokyo, Okazaki demonstrated his ability to self-edit.
Main message: Former knit designer Mari Odaka drew from her roots while also demonstrating her range with her spring collection, the first one she’s shown on Tokyo’s runways. The knits were many and varied, from oversize, mixed-texture sweaters to open knit dresses and crop tops with openings at the elbows. But she combined these with silky and velour blouses, sheer mesh pants, and loose-fitting denim for a contrast of textures. The lines were clean and the colors classic shades of navy, beige, white and red, while bits of fringe and lace created focal points.
The result: Odaka delivered a strong offering with a clear point of view and unique sensibility, proving she deserves a spot on Tokyo’s regular fashion week calendar.
Main message: Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katsui gave their garden party-evoking collection a Space Age edge with tinsel wigs, Mylar visors and headscarves, and simple black cubes on their stark white runway. They showed loose, ankle-length dresses and skirts in sheer mesh or botanical prints, paired with fringed knits, wide herringbone striped tunics and linen suits. A few all-black looks, some with dark leopard-print pants or metallic accents, kept it from feeling too sweet or predictable.
The result: The easy shapes and soft textiles would be right at home at any picnic, but unexpected accents kept it feeling fresh, modern and urban.
Name: Ksenia Schnaider
Main message: Ksenia Schnaider’s Ukrainian resort-themed collection was a breath of fresh air during a largely subdued Tokyo Fashion Week. Its kitschy vibe and beachy influences translated into a fun collection of urban cool-girl clothes. The designer said she was inspired by the makeup and high heel-wearing beachgoers from her home country. She sent out sequin-encrusted T-shirt dresses, Hawaiian sunset-print shirts, and denim with unfinished edges and plenty of cargo pockets. A standout fur-like frayed denim jacket closed the show.
The result: With high energy, a clear theme and a fresh feeling, the collection was one of the most promising of the first half of the week, and showed that the designer doesn’t take herself too seriously.
Main message: A stark white runway got pops of bright greens, yellows and blues as Hare’s models walked in sporty mesh dresses, straight-leg pants, ankle-length skirts and bomber jackets. The silhouettes were familiar but the brand, designed by a team, has a large digital following, proving its commercial appeal. A head-to-toe shibori tie-dye look on denim and chambray, and a satin jumpsuit in a marbled paint print stood out, while details such as fanny packs and large cargo pockets hinted at a Nineties theme.
The result: While the pieces themselves were not particularly exciting, the styling and accessories helped to elevate them slightly, and the bright colors contrasting with black and white felt fresh.
Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: “An ordinary girl from a small town is going to buy a flower print dress for her date. That is so romantically sad,” said Shueh Jen-Fang’s show notes. Prone to taking inspiration from childhood themes and experiences, the designer made this collection a grown-up storybook tale. Spanning clown-like jumpsuits with exaggerated shoulders to sweet floral or pastel dresses with huge pockets, it permeated humor. But there were also plenty of less innocent details, like dresses, skirts and long fringed shorts worn with buttons and zippers undone to show the navel, or satin thong underwear attached to the outside of frocks and extending all the way up to the shoulders. Tiny cropped jackets, an oversize, stonewashed denim double-breasted blazer, and mismatched sleeves played with proportion.
The result: As the last show of Tokyo’s spring fashion week, it did not disappoint, cleverly mixing together unique yet wearable pieces with more theatrical, conceptual ones.
Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.
Stephanie von Watzdorf was awash in the afterglow of the Meghan Markle effect when presenting her spring Figue collection. The Duchess of Sussex wore a floral dress from the collection for her first speech on the royal tour in Fiji earlier this week. “She’s in Fiji, which is one of my dream destinations, and she’s talking about women’s empowerment and education, which is so on my radar, aside from animals and outfits,” said von Watzdorf, adding that Markle’s effect on sales is real.
As for the spring collection, von Watzdorf titled it Nomad Love. She culled decorative elements — stripes, beading, florals, embroidery — from nomadic tribes the world over and coalesced them into pajama tops and bottoms, silk and cotton caftans, peasant tops and robes that fit the bill for pretty, bohemian style whether you’re wandering the globe or going about your everyday life and want something that telegraphs “summer.” What felt newest were airy, voluminous cotton dresses in polka dots, a quilted ikat robe and a great pearl and evil eye jewelry collaboration with Beck Jewels.
Two-and-a-half years after Tory Burch launched Tory Sport, the brand’s performance results are coming in. “It’s interesting to start to see what the business is coming to,” Burch said last week during a preview of the spring collection. “We’re starting to see what makes sense, less is more, and what is working for us.” The collection is not just cute, colorful and branded, although it is definitively all of those things — it’s also become a viable player in terms of performance wear. Yoga and running, particularly the seamless pieces, are doing well, as is golf.
For spring, Burch amped up the color with the Bauhaus principles of form and function in mind, working in fuchsia, red, green, blue and white in graphic stripes and lots of chevron. The clothes she wore to play sports in high school in the Seventies were on her mind, so chevron track jackets and silky soccer jerseys were updated in lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics as opposed to the pure polyester the vintage styles came in. Weatherproof outerwear stood out, as did a few fabulous chunky hand knit cotton sweaters that fell into Tory Sport’s “coming and going” category. There was a new tennis skort and
While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.
Main message: Risa Aizawa evoked a child’s dress-up party with her latest show, seating a group of models in nude undergarments, neutral colored heels and blonde bob wigs on the floor in the center of her runway. Around them walked more models, who wore her fairytale-esque designs. With sweet, girly looks such as tulle or lace dresses covered in bows, frills and ruffles shown alongside more casual, real-world pieces including see-through raincoats and an oversize, gathered T-shirt dress printed with a cartoon character with eyes in her hair, it was like a modern-day “Alice in Wonderland.” Aizawa’s pastel palette and opulent textures, which included velour and jacquard, were contrasted by an out-of-place ankle-length, frilled frock in bright magenta, yellow, orange, blue and green.
The result: Considering her background working in a “maid café” and as a Japanese pop star, it’s not surprising that Aizawa’s design sensibility draws heavily from Tokyo subculture. And while the collection is unlikely to garner a widespread following, it’s sure to appeal to her fans and target audience.
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek lived in Japan for two years, designing for a Japanese company. Not only did she meet her Japanese husband during this time, but the experience also shaped her design sensibility. She focuses on unique materials, including both sustainable fabrics and innovative performance textiles “in order to create fashion with a dynamic attitude.” In her debut Tokyo show, she used tech fabrics to craft color-blocked parkas, shorts and tube tops in navy, black, beige and orange. While Pek designs for both genders, the men’s offerings mimicked the designs for women, including jackets with zip-off sleeves and pants that unzipped to create shorts. Asymmetrical cutting and folding techniques added an edge to athleisure-style tube tops and dresses with drawstring details, while shirting fabrics were layered with jersey and other textiles to create deconstructed blouses.
The result: Pek’s European interpretation of Japanese style was an interesting addition to Tokyo Fashion Week, and demonstrated that the designer has potential to succeed both at home and abroad.
Main message: Model Emi Suzuki launched her brand last year, and quickly gained a following on social media. This season was the first time she participated in Tokyo Fashion Week, thanks to support from Amazon through its At Tokyo program. Rather than a traditional runway show, she chose to do a presentation in collaboration with a new media artist, saying that she wanted attendees to be able to see the detail in her clothes more clearly. Inspired by the night sky, she used zodiac, swirly galaxy and aurora borealis prints, as well as solids in both deep tones and soft, shimmering shades. She chose classic shapes like pencil skirts, wide-leg trousers, camisoles and belted jackets.
The result: The collection had obvious commercial appeal, but Suzuki didn’t take any risks with it and there was a sense that it was missing a certain polish.
Main message: Hidetaka Fukuzono blurred gender lines with his spring offering, showing blouse-like tunics, satin pants and loose-fitting jackets in soft white, ivory, olive, khaki and gray. His textiles were also soft and consisted largely of natural materials. But linen suits and jackets with oversize pockets lent a throw-back, safari vibe.
The result: The collection didn’t offer anything new and the styling was uninventive, but the clothes were high quality and utilized some beautiful fabrics.
For the past few seasons, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara have been reinterpreting classic military pieces, and this spring, they drew inspiration from Thirties and Forties coats and pants from American, British and French armed forces. Their show was held in a warehouse near Tokyo Bay, and the simple raw concrete backdrop allowed the clothes to take center stage.
The designers put their own modern take on salvage parkas, chambray shirts, field jackets and pants, flight jackets, motorcycle pants and more. They mixed these with pleated chiffon skirts, sheer mesh dresses, ankle-length knit smocks, denim jackets and cotton dresses. They also showed the third season of their collaboration with The North Face, which included aggressively cropped pullovers, long rain coats, leggings, sweatshirts and T-shirts. While most of the palette centered around neutral shades of khaki, olive, navy, gray, white and black, a few calf-length dresses in red or blue and white stripes provided contrast and added a subtle nod to the nautical.
While the military influences were clear, the collection was still modern and urban, with well-cut silhouettes and quality fabrics, creating the ideal wardrobe for an urban nomad’s commute. And thanks to the pieces by The North Face, it’s also suitable for
St. John presented a more streamlined and sleek collection during an intimate cocktail presentation in place of a showroom appointment for spring 2019. The brand felt even more elevated with mostly mannequins dressed in neutrals at the forefront of the floor-to-ceiling walls of the Glass Houses penthouse venue.
“We thought highlighting black, navy and white just sort of synthesized and streamlined it to the silhouette and form — to highlight slacks, jackets, dresses. There’s tons more color as well though,” explained Tom Jarrold, the brand’s senior vice president of marketing, branding and communications.
The silhouettes were light and easy: a long caftan continued from resort was updated in white, but also offered short and in fiery red. Transparencies made for important details in the collection on dresses and blazers. The brand is making due diligence to keep new collections close to its core DNA — continuing long line and tweed jackets, a wide array of “New Standard” basics, and dresses — while maintaining a less embellished, tightly edited and focused approach going forward.
Main message: South Korean-born, Tokyo-based designer Chisung Ihn made his runway debut outdoors at his alma mater, Bunka Fashion Graduate University. The rain that came down as a drum corps signaled the start and end of the show and only added to the atmosphere.
While intended for women, the collection was partially modeled by males in bright red lipstick, a shade that was mirrored on trenchcoats, bustier tops and open knits. Other colors were equally bold, and textures ranged from sheer organza to thick pleather. Sporty pieces included a striped knit dress, tech leggings, sports bras and a skirt with multiple drawstrings.
The result: While the silhouettes were not new, the designer put his own spin on them through color and texture. But the styling was uninventive and the collection grew repetitive with too many looks.
In salute to the Instagram age, photo prints made a big showing in the spring collections. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez marked their Proenza Schouler homecoming by decorating some basic materials, like cotton shirting, with photos of New York.
Main message: Ryoko Mukasa chose a bright, sun-filled venue for her brand’s inaugural runway show, the softly filtered green of the trees through a wall of glass setting the tone for her collection. She showed loose lavender skirts and pantsuits, bright pink and coral-colored gathered satin jumpsuits, and a layered aquamarine chiffon dress. But her strongest looks had a subtle edginess to them, such as an off-the-shoulder blouse in crisp white shirting, with a thin lace underlay at the neckline, or a checked bias-cut skirt paired with a black-and-white open-knit sweater.
The result: There were some strong pieces, but as a whole the collection felt disjointed, as if the designer tried too hard to incorporate too many contrasting elements.
Before the start of Miu Miu’s spring show, the room was dark to enhance viewing of close-up video of models’ faces, their hair pulled back in headbands, one with a bold swipe of red across her eyelids, another with crimson lips, that was projected on white bubble letters spelling out the brand’s logo. It made you wonder if a beauty launch was afoot. In fact, the collection was about “deconstructing beauty,” explained Miuccia Prada after the show. “It’s talking about what’s interesting now — tailoring, glamour, elegance — reworking it and that’s what I did.”
You could take her at her word. The building blocks of a woman’s wardrobe, with the exception of any trace of hyper casual athleticwear, were on Prada’s table, up for reassessment. The question posed seemed to be: How to make it modern? The answer was to be to embrace the look of DIY, recycling, upcycling even if everything is brand new. It was all far from homespun, yet it took Prada’s signature ugly/pretty (but pretty perfect) trope in a different direction with a rare exploration of the messier side of imperfection. Consider the casting: aside from a few big name models, the runway was full of
An earthy majesty defines Sarah Burton’s work for Alexander McQueen. It’s raw, intimate and inspired by Britain’s rich pagan past.
For spring, Burton and her design staff visited several hallowed shrines of British paganism, including Silbury Hill and Avebury Stone Circle, sites where humans left indelible marks on nature, and where now, hundreds of years later, the two forces seem indelibly joined. She came away with a new take on her compelling, long-running heroine. “She’s always pagan, I suppose,” Burton said backstage, “rooted to the ground, rooted to the earth.” She is also typically self-sufficient, determined and powerful in her femininity, yet vulnerable, too, a concept that strikes a deep chord in our fractured world. Often, she projects an archetypal warrior goddess whose strength and gentleness manifest in unison, via, on one hand, strict tailoring, corsetry and harnesses, and on the other, gentle dresses with a look of ancient-world dishabille.
For spring, Burton focused on “a woman’s journey, the moments that she experiences in life, so birth, christening, sisterhood, motherhood, friendship. The idea of expressing feelings and being empowered by emotion and vulnerability.” All while being exquisitely turned out.
Burton is the reverse of the ready-to-wear designers who show during couture; she is
To counter what he sees as the darkness of the times, Nicolas Andreas Taralis moved away from his habitual somber register, injecting his spring collection with lightness and color in a sculptural way.
Rectangular strips of technical fabric were sewn together to evoke parachutes in free fall, moving with the body in transparent strips on column and bustier dresses in white and pale yellow, scarlet and fuchsia; billowing as a pale yellow puff-ball skirt with suspenders, paired with a T-shirt that read “Heroes” — in reference to David Bowie.
Tailored pieces like a dark green nylon satin suit and a black cotton jacket were crafted from panels of fabric, leaving gashes in which the wind would rustle.
Laser-cut foliage from a military register created texture on a unisex black coat intended to evoke a shell that protects the body, a motif reprised elsewhere on a white tailored jacket, its lining showing through, and on T-shirts and shift dresses. Elsewhere, Taralis delivered a more overt political message with printed slogans like “surrender” and “disobey” on bright Japanese sports mesh vests and photo prints of protests on his jersey T-shirts, adding a touch of street to what was an interesting, quirky lineup.
The designer in the gender-fluid, handiwork-intensive collection explored the concept of the east interpreted through a western filter. In particular, he looked to the creations of an American carpet manufacturer from the Thirties “who copied Chinese rugs.”
The designer challenged himself in the handiwork-intensive, textured collection, working with a weird palette of hues including deep purple, pistachio and mint that was outside of his comfort zone. The show set — a dingy garage with industrial lights and a wet floor sprinkled with eucalyptus oil — was equally strange.
A glitched jacquard suit in a carpet motif had a “foggy” aspect to it. Elsewhere, an eye-catching mesh dress came needle-punched with yellow silk thread, playing on the idea of forcing organic fibers into synthetic fibers.
The showpiece was an elaborate black and silver sequined robe dress, produced by hand in a workshop in Shanghai, bearing the face of an imaginary avatar.
A matching shirt and pant in a liquid mesh bonded with suiting fabric to create a wet-look effect, which was at once structured and light with an iridescence, offered the most compelling and wearable spin on the appearance-versus-reality theme.